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length and diameter of cordalette


monty

24-Dec-2006
10:14:40 AM

hi guys just wondering what you use for cordalette 7mm 8mm 9mm?
6 meters 8 meters ? whats the go for this bit of equipment
warm regards simon

Chipbutty

24-Dec-2006
11:21:20 AM

hi, check the tech tips section and go to racking cordalette it has a link to cordalette 101, hope this helps.


mousey

24-Dec-2006
11:29:45 AM

i have a few (being a guide) but i find the most useful are a 7m of 7mm for on the wall, while a 7-8m 8mm is great for toprope anchors & slinging trees


monty

24-Dec-2006
11:33:14 AM

thanks guys for the replys hope you all have a great x mas
warm regards simon


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24-Dec-2006
12:28:16 PM

This is one of many results from a search on 'cordalette' using the function on LHS of screen.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?ForumID=1&Action=Display&MessageID=3884&PagePos=&Sort=

(& view the following 3 pages of messages after that post).


monty

24-Dec-2006
3:36:04 PM

thanks that answered heaps of the little questions which were bugging me
warm regards simon


Phil Box

24-Dec-2006
8:28:54 PM

Nylon 7mm is the way to go according to the latest opinion in the John Long Anchors book just published. Don't use any of the tech cords as they are too stiff. The stretchy nylon is far superior for equalisation under the latest round of testing. I highly recommend the Anchors book for the invaluable discussion on equalisation etc. A great but technical read that is worth plowing through and getting your skull around. It encapsulates a lot of the current thinking on the subject and is definitely an excellent primer on the oh so ever growing complicated issue of anchors.

gfdonc

24-Dec-2006
8:37:43 PM

Nylon 7mm happy to say.
I have two lengths depending what I'm doing, will measure them sometime.

Paul

24-Dec-2006
8:53:54 PM

Buy you cordalette big, you can always shorten it later if it is too long. it is easier to shorten it on the cliff rather than find a way to extend it

gfdonc

4-Jan-2007
4:43:38 PM

Finally got the tape measure out for you.
Short version is a loop 1.5m (i.e. 3m of cord plus extra for a knot, say 3.6m total). 7mm cord.
Long version is 2.7m of loop i.e. around 6m of cord.
Short version is really an oversized sling, but light to carry and proves itself useful on multipitch routes.


Cool Hand Lock

4-Jan-2007
9:21:31 PM

I have two 5.5mm cordelette. 8 meters of spectra each. Be careful, some knots slip when tied in spectra. One of my cordalettes is tied in a big cirlce, the other with fig 8's on either end backed up with tripple fishermans. Drop me a line someday, I'll show you all kinds of ways to use them.

Just remember. It's only as strong as one strand. As where it goes through the biner, there's only only strand through the biner itself.

julian.A

4-Jan-2007
9:30:51 PM

Many people seem to be using 7mm cord. 7mm cord is generally not rated as a single strand, so you have to use it in a loop - two strands.

I find that 8 meters of 8mm cord, or 8 meters of 19mm tube tape works great.

gfdonc

4-Jan-2007
9:59:32 PM

At the risk of sounding repetitive, check this analysis:
http://www.amga.com/ComparativeStrengthTest.pdf

Issue: after you've knotted it, 7mm nylon cord is stronger than almost all, and performed better in dynamic tests. Plus, it's cheap, hence easily replaced.


dougal

5-Jan-2007
2:53:01 PM

IMO 8mm is way overkill (although personally its the bulk and handling of it that I don't like) 7 is the norm but looking at the links even 6mm comes up smelling like roses(thats at least 16kn for one arm of a 3 arm system that will never take 13kn although if I take that kitchen sink with me again.........?)

gfdonc

5-Jan-2007
3:51:38 PM

Agree. I did have an 8mm cordalette for a while, until I read the article and realised it was overkill. Now I use it for toperope anchors (which I rarely need anyway).


BigMike

5-Jan-2007
4:30:19 PM

On 5/01/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>Agree. I did have an 8mm cordalette for a while, until I read the article
>and realised it was overkill. Now I use it for toperope anchors (which
>I rarely need anyway).

Toperope? I'm not surprised you don't need one often, but which kind anyways?

tope 1 verb (i) 1. to consume alcoholic drink habitually and to excess.
verb (t) 2. to drink (alcohol) habitually and to excess. [variant of obsolete top drink, apparently special use of top tip, tilt, topple; ? akin to top2]1

tope 2 noun 1. a small shark, Galeorhinus galeus , found along the European coast. 2. any of various related sharks of small to medium size. [origin uncertain, ? from Cornish]2

tope 3 noun 1. (in Buddhist countries) a dome-shaped monument, usually for religious relics. [Hindustani tōp]3

I

gfdonc

5-Jan-2007
5:30:02 PM

6m of 8mm for lashing me to the bar, so's I don't falls downwards .. (hic).


BigMike

5-Jan-2007
5:35:33 PM

I thought maybe it was toperoping on Kathmandu temples, while waiting for the weather to clear in the Himalaya...


monty

6-Jan-2007
3:58:47 PM

thank you to all, for your replies i got 8 meters of 7mm rope your replies were most helpful
warm regards simon


andyR

7-Jan-2007
11:20:54 AM

Are you aware that you don't necessarily have to use as much as 7-8 metres of whatever material you are using to construct your cordelette? You can make considerable money and weight savings by making a cordelette from 1.9 - 2 metres of material instead - simply tie a loop at each end (these ends will be clipped into the end biners in your system when rigging a belay utilising a cordelette) - instead of tying all this material up to make one big loop (which you don't need to do). I find this far simpler. It is easier for me or seconds to carry. My understanding is that the diameter of the material used depends on the material you are using. For example, if using nylon, you would use around 8mm diamter. 6mm for spectra would be acceptable, maybe even less. My understanding is that spectra is less dynamic, so probably more suitable to be used in the belay. I hope this is helpful. AndyR

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