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Climbing Shoes - Boreal Spiders, any thoughts?


Ben

13-Feb-2004
10:02:11 AM

It's time to splash out and buy some new climbing shoes again, I'm currently torn between buying some scarpa dominator velcros (for the 3rd time running) and the Boreal Spiders - does anyone have any experience with these?

Do they age ok (not fall appart after a few months), are they solid and dependable?

They'll probably be used 70% in the gym 30% outdoors.


GG

13-Feb-2004
10:31:05 AM

Please buy a crappy pair that you hate and that cause you to fall of all the holds that you used to stick to like glue so that you are completely depressed and climb badly so that I can be better than you..... :-)

Now I feel better...

Maybe it's worth trying the Madrocks from Cliffahnger?


Rich

13-Feb-2004
10:43:53 AM

there's some awesome sticky gumboots, apparently the black gum is the same as that used in the most up-to-date formula1 tyres.. really coolo. i think you can pick up a pair from your local target..


Ben

13-Feb-2004
12:20:52 PM

Do the gumboots come in a velcro version?

Haven't seen you at climbing for ages Garath, what days are you at hardrock? Shame you didn't make it out to the Gramps with us last weekend - you missed your chance to watch me cry like a baby struggling up a nice little 19 (on topbelay no less). I definately need to get out more and get better at trusting my feet on real rock holds.


GG

13-Feb-2004
1:04:01 PM

Tue and Friday. In fact a vicious rumour had you releasing your grip on said 19.

Had my own adventure on Junglescope....


Ben

13-Feb-2004
1:51:46 PM

Definately, I dogged it. Still have wierd, swollen and incredibly itchy scratches on my forearm from trying to hold myself onto a rounded piece of rock at the end. Maybe some bacteria on the rock or something.


GG

13-Feb-2004
2:00:12 PM

Found your crag.com home page!

joemor

13-Feb-2004
7:07:37 PM

go thje ones that fit your foot best... plain and simple....


Ben

15-Feb-2004
1:13:27 AM

Yeah - Last time I went looking I tried on heaps, ended up with the dominator V's which were very comfortable. I bought some of the mad rocks today (mugen) they are a nice fit for my feet and are very cheap compared to other climbing shoes, hopefully they'll last for a while. My feet are faily wide so most shoes really just don't work.


GG

16-Feb-2004
11:15:56 AM

Ben, Perhaps you could give a product report...

Setha

16-Feb-2004
11:38:12 AM

The word on Madrock's (if you go to RC,com) is varied. The general opinion is that they wear out too fast (like in 6 months), the other camp says that this doesn't matter because they're are so cheap that you can buy two pairs of mugen's for one pair of 5.10 anasazis, which are a very similar shoe. I'd be interested in hearing how your madrocks hold up.


GG

16-Feb-2004
11:43:04 AM

Yeah the Madrock shoe threads come thick and fast on RC.com. I trust Ben's opinion though....


Ben

16-Feb-2004
1:22:20 PM

Yeah - I'm definately interested in how they hold up. I'll be trying them out tonight and maybe a review in a month or two if I get a sense of how fast they are self destructing.

at $130 (in VCC discount though) the price is certainly right.


GG

17-Feb-2004
11:52:10 AM

Dropped in to Cliffhanger and tried on a pair of Hooker Lace Ups. Man are they super sensitive. Did a quick traverse. Feel nice and sticky...$169. Very tempted.


Pei

17-Feb-2004
4:54:37 PM

On 16/02/2004 Gareth wrote:
>
>

I recently got a pair of these (my brother brought them back from Singapore - shoes were really cheap over there). I haven't used them much as I've been taking a break from climbing (sore fingers), but so far they've been pretty good. They fit my foot really well and are very similar to the anasazi velcro last (I've got these too) and also the heel cup is not as big as the anasazis (good for me, because I have a small heel). I think the hard/soft friction sole is more of a gimmick and from what I've heard from other people it wears out quickly. But they do edge and smear very nicely. Personally I find them as good as my anasazi velcros and they're much cheaper. The only thing is their durability - I'll have to wait and see.


Ben

17-Feb-2004
11:07:25 PM

I bouldered with them last night (The mad rock mugens). They are more comfortable than my dominators, I felt much less need to take them off frequently, and this is the first time I've worn them.

I do notice them being less hooked/agressive than the dominators, but I'm not sure thats a negative, simply a difference.

Rubber once scuffed a little felt fine and sticky, the heel ribbing is kinda nice, the soft/hard layering feels gimmicky so far, I'll be happier once I've smoothed out the edges a little.

So over all seems good, only thing that bugged me was the little plastic logo squares they've stitched onto the pull loops (the finger loops to help you get the shoes on). But 30 seconds with a sharp knife has seen them removed.

Looking forward to climbing with them more tomorrow night.

And WOW, fleminton was certainly crowded, despite complaints about the raised cost.


nmonteith

18-Feb-2004
9:10:31 AM

Just a quick note - i tried to get some Mad Rock's last night at Cliffhanger - but they have only a tiny amount of sizes. Don't bother if you have size 38-40 feet! Apprantly they are getting more stock in next week.


neats

18-Mar-2004
12:02:23 PM

How are the Mad Rock's going? Been slab climbing in them? I could be interested in buying a pair....


Ben

25-Mar-2004
1:01:11 PM

I have been using the Madrock Mugens for a while now and I jus love them. I also got some of my old shoes resoled (Dr Phil/Nati) recently - my old dominator Vs and Scarpa Infernos. Having tried all on and climbed with them at the gym I have to say I just like my mugens even more even though the old shoes are now just as sticky (resoled with 5-10 rubber).

Mini Review: Madrock Mugens
Price: ~$150 -> down to around $135 with VCC discount at Altona
Where: Cliffhanger @ Altona
Last Saturday they had a fair few madrocks in, lots of sizes across entire range - get in fast if you want some though, they seem to be selling quickly. Hard Rock are allegedly getting some in, but I''m not sure when their stock will arrive and the staff there seem unsure of how much if any VCC discount they give on shoes (or anything other than entry).

Shoes are white (stupid colour, but you can draw all over them if you want), have a nifty/gimmicky double sole, and are slippers with two velcro closures and two pull loops to get the shoes on your feet. Shoe is lined - mine haven't given too much, don't buy these tight and expect them to give much.

The heel of the shoe is also ribbed, allegedly to help heel hooks - I don't have enough experience heel hooking outdoors to know if this is gimmicky or not.

Fit is very good for my feet - definately the most comfortable shoe I've worn for a while that also feels like high performance. The feel is very snug and fairly supportive - heel hooks feel much more bomber than in previous shoes like my dominator V. My feet are large and wider for their length than most climbing shoes seem to cater for.

Rubber is very sticky - more so than scarpa rubber. Once worn in slightly the dual rubber bit on the bottom smooths out a little and makes smearing nicer. The sole is fairly flat (not hooked like more agressive slippers (dom v, hookers etc) but still feels fine for overhanging stuff. The soles do feel very supportive on the edges for edging - definately not a 2mm rounded sock feeling.

Build quality is holding up really nicely so far (although it's still to early to really tell) - no delamination, or undue wear, tear or distortion.

Neats: I haven't climbed in 'real' slabs in them yet, however I would feel pretty comfortable doing so - they are sticky and comfortable and due to their snugness I get less/none of that sweatyfeet sliding around in shoe slightly feeling that can be so offputting on crap footholds.


neats

26-Mar-2004
3:58:00 PM

Thanks Ben, I'd be interested to know if they would wear quicker as discussed in previous posts above. I'm very happy with my inferno's grip wise, but need to have a lookie at getting a slightly larger shoe.

You say that you have wide feet? Do you think you would therefore benefit by having velcro straps? or is it just a matter of preference... I have smallish narrow feet, like my flatmate says; my climbing shoes are like 'fairy shoes'!!

But I'd also be interested in knowing the reasoning behind choosing velcro straps as opposed to lace ups and vice versa.

There are 26 messages in this topic.