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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
Topic
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Date |
User
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outward force on cams when loaded |
15-Jun-2015 At 11:21:38 AM |
Macciza
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Message |
Yes nuts can also put significant outward force but only at the upper extreme of their range, however if set shallowly i.e. thick nut with constriction down to wire width then the load is minimal as the direction of force is almost straight down. At upper limit, widest point it becomes more like a 'T' with larger forces . . Mostly nuts will be set in the lower range with lower resultant forces . Obviously it is better to use a suitable nut.
Also the expansion range of a nut is fairly minimal compared to a cam, so a nut will simply slip out whilst a cam will continue to expand and blow the flake. Dual axle cams are even worse for this as they expand further . .
No the outward force is not 4x as the load is shared between both sides, so the resultant force is the same as in the single cam analysis @2x ( actually slightly less), see the referenced doc . . .
These general rules re nuts as opposed to cams on expando flakes have been pretty well sorted out by aid climbers. The logic is solid, even if the placements aren't . . .
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