Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Interesting Top Rope Setup
Olbert
29-Mar-2015
11:02:50 AM
So I was walking out of Thompson's Point yesterday and I walked past this set up:



Seems like they have been quite creative in their use of climbing equipment.
dan_b
29-Mar-2015
11:33:47 AM
Not coming up clearly on my screen atm; is that rope through a belay device as well?!?
Jayford4321
29-Mar-2015
12:13:11 PM
On 29/03/2015 dan_b wrote:
>Not coming up clearly on my screen atm; is that rope through a belay device as well?!?

2 bolts each with own hangar an quickdraw, 1 acting as backup to the other which has a pulley on it, and a static rope captive within the sheave cheeks.

A free running toprope setup with no consideration for potential dynamic fall loading if any slack is ever allowed to build up in system.
kieranl
29-Mar-2015
2:34:00 PM
That second drawer is a very dodgy backup. I'd hate to think how those 2 krabs will interact if that top bolt fails - real potential for unclipping there.

There are a couple of good, simple solutions here. One would be if the pulley would accept 2 krabs then both drawers could be clipped into the pulley. This is why it's a really good idea when you're buying a pulley to make sure that it will take 2 krabs. Another would be to use longer drawer so that the second drawer could be clipped to the rope and just remain the teeniest bit unweighted so the advantage of using the pulley isn't lost.
Wendy
29-Mar-2015
3:50:37 PM
These guys need some slings, locking biners and a good lesson in basic anchor setup. And maybe to use their noggins a little.

Why have a pulley to reduce friction when you have your anchor back from the edge???? Extending the anchor would be way more helpful. They should chuck the pulley out. They are basically unnecessary in normal climbing set ups and it looks like their keenness to use it has overwhelmed basic common sense. Long slings equalised as best as possible, 2 screw gates. Decent redundant system, friction problem dealt with by anchor over the edge, their crappy wide angle load replace by a nice narrow one, and no weird biner arrangements not to mention relying on a single snap gate.
Olbert
29-Mar-2015
6:51:43 PM
How reliable are pulleys for that sort of thing? What are the chances that the pulley itself will fail below the rated load?

My initial thoughts were that being a contraption with moving parts they will never be as reliable as a single (or double) locking biner. I seem to remember Neil Monteith posting on here that he had a failed pulley whilst hauling?

E. Wells
29-Mar-2015
8:46:29 PM
Its really crap but hey......

Macciza
29-Mar-2015
11:09:18 PM
My main complaint is the badly clipped bolt plates . . .
But then most people have a worse idea about clipping bolt plates as they do about clipping rings badly . . .
Apart from that . . . I don't recall that setup being in the manual, but it looks like it works, and won't fail catastrophically and kill anyone . . . No foul, no harm . . .

The good Dr
30-Mar-2015
8:33:42 AM
On 29/03/2015 Macciza wrote:
>My main complaint is the badly clipped bolt plates . . .
>But then most people have a worse idea about clipping bolt plates as they
>do about clipping rings badly . . .
>Apart from that . . . I don't recall that setup being in the manual, but
>it looks like it works, and won't fail catastrophically and kill anyone
>. . . No foul, no harm . . .

Very Abbott/Hockey/Pyne way to blame the ring bolts!!

BundyBear
30-Mar-2015
10:31:19 AM
What route is this ? I didn't think there was any carrots left at TP ?
kieranl
30-Mar-2015
1:23:10 PM
On 29/03/2015 Olbert wrote:
>How reliable are pulleys for that sort of thing? What are the chances that
>the pulley itself will fail below the rated load?
>
Very low, assuming it's got a reasonable rating for the load (at least as strong as a biner). I'd always back it up in any case but bolt failure or biners coming unclipped would be the main worries.

Macciza
30-Mar-2015
1:36:56 PM
The worst error here is probably the ignorance of the perfectly good looking bollard available . . .

ambyeok
30-Mar-2015
2:53:10 PM
While we are throwing down political references I will hit Macciza with a "Please explain!?". Is your beef with the bolt plate clipping the fact that the quick draws don't secure the plate on (too thin)? Or... I might have placed the lower one they other way so that the weight is on the bend rather than latch and so it avoids any pokey out rock opening the gate. Anything else I have missed or more importantly might not know about?

Macciza
30-Mar-2015
4:32:48 PM
Spine of biner should be against rock, gate facing out ...
With sport setup draws like these (both gates facing same way) joy would clip the plate from underneath in order to end up in this configuration . ..
Or reverse the rope end biner, then clip from front and rotate biner 180 until spine is set right . .
One Day Hero
30-Mar-2015
5:40:49 PM
The most serious fuch up I can see is that you drove down to Nowra in March and climbed at Thommo's........what's the go with that? Training up for a trip to Jordan? Trying to sweat off your public service gut?

Conditions on the granite are getting amazing, btw

The good Dr
30-Mar-2015
5:44:18 PM
On 30/03/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>The most serious fuch up I can see is that you drove down to Nowra in March
>and climbed at Thommo's........what's the go with that? Training up for
>a trip to Jordan? Trying to sweat off your public service gut?
>
>Conditions on the granite are getting amazing, btw

Woah ... drops the big G-bomb!!
One Day Hero
31-Mar-2015
4:50:48 PM
On 30/03/2015 The good Dr wrote:
>Woah ... drops the big G-bomb!!

You better believe it, Booroomba was going off on Sunday! There was another party of climbers there, completely separate to ours. And we had a party of three..........so that means a total of, like, five climbers minimum.
kieranl
31-Mar-2015
4:58:03 PM
On 31/03/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 30/03/2015 The good Dr wrote:
>>Woah ... drops the big G-bomb!!
>
>You better believe it, Booroomba was going off on Sunday! There was another
>party of climbers there, completely separate to ours. And we had a party
>of three..........so that means a total of, like, five climbers minimum.

Wow, just like back in 1977.

The good Dr
1-Apr-2015
9:34:47 AM
On 31/03/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 30/03/2015 The good Dr wrote:
>>Woah ... drops the big G-bomb!!
>
>You better believe it, Booroomba was going off on Sunday! There was another
>party of climbers there, completely separate to ours. And we had a party
>of three..........so that means a total of, like, five climbers minimum.

Jeez almost as busy as Buffalo on the weekend.

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints