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Grivel G14 new-matic on LS Nepal Evo

MP

14-Mar-2014
2:04:04 PM

Anybody got any experience re fit of Grivel G14 new-matic on LS Nepal Evo boots size 43, or thereabouts?

G12 new-matic fit this boot and size well, but I am specifically wondering about G14 new-matic front bail fit to the boot toe and front point protrusion (too short? or long?) as there’s evidently no adjustment using this binding. Also, has anybody used the cramp-o-matic to new-matic converter bail on a G14 and can comment re same.

If you've ever stuffed around trying various boot/crampon combos then you'll understand and relate to this query. I've scanned a few online forums for insight but although there's a few ref's to this issue, it's not clear for which binding the info applies.
Thanks if you can offer any first-hand knowledge.

Marcus

phillipivan

14-Mar-2014
2:36:29 PM

Have you tried moving the heel lever between the two or three different sets holes holes?

Since you can't move the plastic toe piece, this is your main mechanism in conjunction with the overall crampon length is the only means to adjust front point length (short of setting them too long and filing them down!).

MP

14-Mar-2014
3:00:31 PM

I don't have the G14 - just doing some homework pre? buy. Adjusting the heel between those holes won't change the front points, assuming the front bail is fitted right - that's more about adjusting the overall crampon length to suit the boot and fine-tuning heel fit, like getting the vertical posts at rear (on these crampons) to sit against or close to the boot heel to minimize/prevent movement between crampon and boot there.

The issues with front bail fit and boots relate to toe-width, toe-lug length, toe-shape, etc. Like if I put my G12s on my Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX I lose about 1 cm of front point. OK for glacier travel but crap for steep ice.

Thanks for response though.

phillipivan

14-Mar-2014
3:19:01 PM

It can be set so the rear of the boot sits slightly infront of the rear posts, which should have the effect of slightly shortening your front points.

But why not just get the fully automatic bindings?

MP

14-Mar-2014
3:43:15 PM

Nah - if the toe is hard up against and tight in the front bail of the new-matic binding, the point extension beyond boot tip is essentially fixed. The way to tweak that is to use a wire front bail and shift that between holes (like with cramp-o-matic). Or have adjustable points themselves (like Petzl Lynx).

The 'automatic' (like cramp-o-matic) wire toe bail type bindings can make for a lot of lateral toe movement. But dunno in this particular G14/boot combo case. Anyway - prefer the new-matic type front bail in terms of security.

brendan

14-Mar-2014
4:47:48 PM

I have experience with the G14's newmatics in bigger size boots, they are good crampons but the one thing they would sometimes do in softer/wetter snow is the anti balling "bubble" at the front of the crampon would pack out with snow and the bottom points wouldn't go in as far (snow would get under where the front of the anti balling rubber meets the front points).
I brought a pair of Lynx last year and they are fantastic! very adjustable and they come with both the crampon bail systems they fit all my different boots very well, these could be an option for you. or you could buy my old G14's ;)

MP

14-Mar-2014
6:21:40 PM

Thanks for that.
Funny you mention the AB plate vicinity the front points, as I thought that looked a bit suss.

Re the Lynx - any dramas re the heel having the strap through low versus high on most crampons? There are a few online criticisms of this. I figure it'd take a pretty ugly downward blow to knock it off the boot, but also wondered about it packing out with snow at the top (probably not at all, as diff. to front being pushed against snow/ice) - your experience Brendan? Also, part of the length adjustment gadget makes the crampon sit off the heel a bit - any probs? Guess not if you rate them as excellent.

brendan

14-Mar-2014
7:14:37 PM

I havent noticed any problems with the heel clip, i know what you mean but it would take a massive hit in just the right spot to dislodge it. I just put them onto my boot here and playing with them i don't think its a problem.

Another observation and this is more of a big foot thing but they seem to sit right in the centre of the boot and are wider overall then a Cyborb (pretty crap crampon i borrowed for a trip once). This makes them much more secure when walking on snow french technique. I haven't taken them out summer mountaineering yet but the climbing i have done in them in Winter/Spring snow and ice they have been brilliant.

I have left the straps long and take an extra wrap around my ankles to provide a bit more support and lock my heels down works well.

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