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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Fixed gear on The Initiation, The Hump, Mt Buffalo

ajfclark
30/01/2014
12:21:35 PM
I managed to weld a #6 BD and a #5 wallnut into the first pitch of The Initiation and neither my second nor I could get them out. If someone gets them out, they're more than welcome to keep them however I'd be interested to know how they come out. I suspect getting down there in the morning before the sun gets on the pitch might help. If you get them out and want to return them, that's fine too.

shiltz
30/01/2014
2:23:04 PM
When was this? We pulled a couple of wires out of the initial crack first thing Sunday morning. They came out easily by hand.

ajfclark
30/01/2014
2:24:53 PM
We were on it on Saturday so that'd be them. I was trying to convince some others in our group to do the route on Sunday morning but I had no takers.

Glad I didn't go to the effort to rap back in Monday morning before I left though... Should've got off my arse Sunday morning though.

There's also a number 10 in the very bottom of the very top crack of the route. If you can get that out you're a magician....

shiltz
30/01/2014
2:26:29 PM
You're welcome to grab them back. I'm based in Melbourne.

ajfclark
30/01/2014
2:29:18 PM
That'd be awesome. I'm in Horsham. Let me know next time you're heading to Arapiles/Horsham and I'll get you some beer.

shiltz
30/01/2014
3:35:17 PM
OK, probably won't get up there for a few months though. Tend to focus on Buffalo in the summer.
gfdonc
30/01/2014
5:22:22 PM
On 30/01/2014 shiltz wrote:
>When was this? We pulled a couple of wires out of the initial crack first
>thing Sunday morning. They came out easily by hand.

Like I said, Andrew - have had the same experience. The rock warms up, they jam, the rock cools overnight, they're easily removed the next morning. Had exactly the same experience myself. Oddly, my second was called Andrew ..

ajfclark
30/01/2014
6:09:48 PM
My second was called Andreas... I really should've got my arse out of bed Sunday morning and rapped down again...
patto
30/01/2014
6:57:56 PM
That's interesting....

Two years almost to the day I managed to weld a #5 Wallnut into the first pitch of the Initiation. Something is definitely afoot here.

I spent 15 minutes on rappel trying to get it out after my second couldn't. After hammering on it with a nut tool I ended up irreparably damaging the wire and I still couldn't get the nut out.

ajfclark
30/01/2014
7:44:50 PM
Yeah, my second left it then rapped in and had another go after we finished the route, jugged out unsuccessful. I rapped in and spent 15 minutes at it and jugged out, unsuccessful.

Speaking of oddities, I also noticed some glue in the flake right down the bottom too.

shiltz
30/01/2014
8:10:42 PM
You could tell there was a sustained effort to remove the Wallnut, some minor wire damage as a result.
No damage to the BD, just looks well used.

sbm
31/01/2014
9:16:45 AM
I've always suspected that getting wires stuck on the first pitch is actually the initiation that the route is named after.

Ben_E
1/02/2014
7:30:07 PM
Last time I lead the Initiation I went to clip a fixed nut before thinking better of it and giving it a gentle wiggle - it fell straight out.

As someone mentioned above, I think temperature/time of day has a significant effect on that climb (same with Seventh Pillar).

Any nuts placed on the climb should simply be considered part of an exchange system when you get the last leader's nuts (assuming you start early) and the next leader gets yours...

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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