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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Fall ratings
lost tazmaniac
15/06/2012
12:41:57 PM
has anyone else seen this site -
http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html
or something similar?
was trying to resolve this with how Dean Potter manages to fall on Tombstone and none of his gear pops?

Nayda
15/06/2012
1:28:02 PM
interesting calculator. I understood the formula for calculating fall factors as 'length of fall divided by length of rope out', which would make a 4ft fall (2ft above last bolt) on 20ft of rope a fall factor of 0.2, while the calculator says that a 4ft fall on 20ft of rope would be a fall factor of 1.1, with the same fall on 40ft & 60ft of rope would be fall factors of 1.05 & 1.03 respectively. either the calculated factors are way off or my formula's a little simplistic?
hotgemini
15/06/2012
1:29:02 PM
Well, it believes that falling from 5 metres above your last piece of gear with 40 metres of rope in the system is a factor 1.125 fall... So I wouldn't be putting too much credence in its results.
pcb
15/06/2012
1:49:46 PM
From the page source I'd say the calculation is wrong:
form.fallfact.value=(lanch+lrope)/lrope

Miguel75
15/06/2012
2:30:51 PM
A brief discussion, including the aforementioned calculator, here on supertopo;

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1073010
lost tazmaniac
15/06/2012
3:19:54 PM
thanks for this link.. wow.. what an education.. It was interesting to see how the knot that you tie into also falls into the equation.. so I found one other calculator (for education purposes.. not for real use) on that site..

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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