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Topic Date User

Belaying from the rope loop 8-Apr-2012 At 8:30:21 AM davidn

Message

On 7/04/2012 sliamese wrote:
>Rope loop, belay loop its all a moot point really;
>
>Both far inferior than using an autolocking device(reverso/guide) off
>an anchor.
>
>Your not in the system
>Can keep a tighter rope(good for alpine speed)
>Can drink eat etc while belaying much more safely
>Haul system already in place should anything unlikely happen
>Less room for human error(dropping someone)
>
>So why stick with the old school when theres better ways? Change isnt
>a dirty word...

The anchor is a system which includes yourself and the pieces/bolts. If the anchor is sketchy, then putting yourself and your stance between the anchor and a fall can be good idea because you can reduce/avoid the load on the anchor.

No doubt someone will reply that anchors must always be bombproof...

Reverso/guide are a bit scary in the hands of newer climbers too (in terms of lowering).

"What would you know Dave, you never climbed anything in your life!!!"

(just helping you out Damo - I'm still married though, sorry)