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ropes and bolting glue: a good mix?

dazzz

2-Jun-2010
4:10:24 PM

hi all

while putting up a new route a little while back a mate and I* managed to get my nice new rope fairly liberally splatted with bolting glue (ramset 101)...As far as I can tell it's mostly on the sheath rather than the core, but do any of the sciency types out there know if that is likely to affect the rope strength?

Thanks!

* who was responsible is still being debated


nmonteith

2-Jun-2010
4:16:23 PM

Since my ropes, pants, drill, hammer, slings and harness get covered in the stuff I would say - no, its not a problem. It tastes like shit if you get it in your mouth though.

vonClimb

2-Jun-2010
4:33:39 PM

If its only on the sheath it should be right.


tnd

2-Jun-2010
5:00:17 PM

Yeah, probably ok, gotta say I've had plenty on my ropes. And when it dries it crunches as it goes through your GriGri.


wombly

2-Jun-2010
5:42:41 PM

*given that "your mate" was the one with glue all over his fingers, I'm not convinced he has much room to weasel out of responsibility for the new rope-gluing shenanigans.

gdawg

2-Jun-2010
6:37:30 PM

good to know.

I dropped my rope in epoxy glue a few months ago and wasn't sure if I should use it. Bit sad to retire it - its my lucky rope.

I have been soaking it in petrol since then and almost all of the glue has dissolved out (the rope changed color too!).


rodw

2-Jun-2010
6:39:17 PM

Yeah echo those remarks...should all be good....I tend to use a different rope for bolting than climbing as bolting ropes tend to get trashed pretty quickly...plus my bolting
rope(s) are statics too.....obviously Im talking about bolting on abseil.

mikllaw

2-Jun-2010
6:47:22 PM

what's interesting is how easily polyester comes off ropes and rocks. Not like epoxy.

gdawg

2-Jun-2010
10:03:59 PM

btw has anyone used Bremfix styfree glue?

The guy at the store reckons its similar to chemset101 but cheaper. I emailed their sales rep and they said it is rated to 27kn.


nmonteith

2-Jun-2010
10:59:02 PM

On 2/06/2010 gdawg wrote:
>btw has anyone used Bremfix styfree glue?
>
>The guy at the store reckons its similar to chemset101 but cheaper. I
>emailed their sales rep and they said it is rated to 27kn.

Never heard of them - but they seem to have a full range of bolting guf. Any idea which is stronger between their poly and the styfree glue? 101 is pretty much the weakest glue anyone should be using, so something that is cheaper does ring the alarm bells for me. What are they asking for a tube? Bunnings does 101 for about $55 for two tubes.

dazzz

3-Jun-2010
10:40:13 AM

thanks for the info all...in the future I'll definately be using an old rope. Also I normally use the 801 glue, but the 101 has the advantage that it sets fast so you can put a route up in a day if that's all you've got, and also in some of the softer rock in the mountains I'd tend to think that it would still be stronger than the surrouding rock it is in?

But does anyone know of stronger glue than the 101 that sets in a comparable time?


rodw

3-Jun-2010
11:01:17 AM

I use powers KF2 glue its sets pretty quickly.

http://www.aerofast.com.au/masonry/KF2%20Injection%20System.pdf


BundyBear

3-Jun-2010
4:04:52 PM

I use Ramset 101 only becuase I can buy it in Bunnings up the road. ($55 for 2 tubes and 4 nozzles)

I would prefer to use Powers KF2, but seems hard to purchase locally. Rod where do you buy it from and how much ?

I have used Sty Free Fischer, does not have that horrid smell, otherwise all seems good. Their spec sheet online compares well to KF2 and Chemset 101.


Phil Box

3-Jun-2010
5:32:01 PM

On 3/06/2010 dazzz wrote:
>thanks for the info all...in the future I'll definately be using an old
>rope. Also I normally use the 801 glue, but the 101 has the advantage that
>it sets fast so you can put a route up in a day if that's all you've got,
>and also in some of the softer rock in the mountains I'd tend to think
>that it would still be stronger than the surrouding rock it is in?
>
>But does anyone know of stronger glue than the 101 that sets in a comparable
>time?
>
>

Mate in softer rock you NEED to be using 801 as it migrates into the substrate and somewhat cements the surrounding rock that the bolt lies within.


rodw

3-Jun-2010
7:30:54 PM

I get it from a shop same block as penrith gym when I go there..

ie here

http://www.nepbolt.com.au/

Kev bought it last time but think $56 for 2 tubes or close to that.


cruze

4-Jun-2010
11:45:04 AM

On 2/06/2010 gdawg wrote:
>good to know.
>
>I dropped my rope in epoxy glue a few months ago and wasn't sure if I
>should use it. Bit sad to retire it - its my lucky rope.
>
>I have been soaking it in petrol since then and almost all of the glue
>has dissolved out (the rope changed color too!).
>
Mate, I hope that you are kidding about the petrol. I don't know of any studies that have established a negative effect of the action of solvent on core/sheath strength or elasticity, but from my knowledge of polymers I would be concerned that the swelling action of a solvent might cause irreversible modification of the entanglement of polymer chains - ie structural change possibly resulting in weakening. I would go so far as to say that any solvent present in air curable resins might provide the same effect, although I expect that the solvent loading would be quite small.

Whenever I see these types of posts I am not sure what the OP wants to take out of people's responses. Whilst it seems that heaps of people get the stuff all over their gear and are obviously alive enough to post messages on chockstone, we all know that all gear wears out eventually (eg Todd Skinner belay loop) and that certain factors are likely to speed up that process. Hope everything is fine.


nmonteith

4-Jun-2010
12:31:44 PM

I find battery acid gets rid of the glue off my ropes.


BundyBear

4-Jun-2010
1:02:20 PM

On 3/06/2010 rodw wrote:
>I get it from a shop same block as penrith gym when I go there..
>
>ie here
>
>http://www.nepbolt.com.au/
>
>Kev bought it last time but think $56 for 2 tubes or close to that.

Yeah, the price is good, but Penrith is not so close to the Shire.


cruze

4-Jun-2010
1:45:15 PM

On 4/06/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>I find battery acid gets rid of the glue off my ropes.
Point taken. Not worried about Geordie at all, he's no slouch. Maybe I just overestimate the power of the internet to turn a regular sane-minded punter into a she'll be right, just throw some turps on it type of person.


rodw

4-Jun-2010
1:50:59 PM

I share your concern cruze, I only soak ropes in bio-deisel, much better for the environment.

There are 22 messages in this topic.