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Are more expensive ropes better?

rockranga

24-May-2010
2:12:56 PM

I thought i would set this question/poll up for two reasons, (1) I am looking for a new rope, (2) it would be interesting to hear everyones perspective on the matter.

I've had experience with a few ropes, my first rope was red and black (no idea what brand, possibly roca) and handled like a dream, very rarely kinked, always caught falls softly for both belayer and climber and it lasted a good four years before i gave up climbing and you would think it was next to new.

The second rope is a roca, it has exceptional stats (14 falls for example) however it originally handled quite badly... after some time it's finally softened up and handles ok(ish) now but it was quite a difficult rope to use for the first 8-10 months (Climbed on once or twice a week in a gym environment).

The third rope is a friends, a Beal Flyer 2. Seems very stiff, doesn't knot well and doesn't catch all that well either. It likes to move through the belay device smoothly which is nice most of the time but sometimes not really wanted. Still only about 2-3 months old so hoping it will soften up and come good.

So, while i know there is never going to be the perfect rope i guess i just wanted to get an idea of what everyone elses experiences have been and what you all look for in a rope.


Miguel75

24-May-2010
2:22:01 PM

I should preface my answer by saying I am a retard.

My experience with ropes is limited though my inexpensive Edelweiss Ally handles really well, according to my climbing buddy/mentor!


wallwombat

24-May-2010
3:50:26 PM

Edelweiss make sweet ropes. Don't be so hard on yourself, Miguel.

patto

24-May-2010
3:58:05 PM

In the uncompetitive market in Australia price isn't really that good of an idication of rope quality. That said more expensive brands generally are a little bit better but it also depends on what you want in a rope.

I don't like ROCA ropes, my impression is similar to yours.

I own a Beal Flyer II for quite some time now and I have climbed on it across the world. It has barely worn in 4 years of medium use (i don't take that many lead falls). I'm surprise at your experience since the Flyer II is the stretchiest rope on the market except for the super skinnys. (Beals are very stretchy ropes generally, stretchy has its pros and cons.)

I have used Tendon ropes and reckon they offer the best bang for the buck. They are cheap here due to Climbing Anchors direct importation. I haven't heard much bad about them. Mammut probably the most expensive, their bi-pattern ropes are awesome. They do have high impact forces though.


wallwombat

24-May-2010
4:10:06 PM

On 24/05/2010 patto wrote:

>I have used Tendon ropes and reckon they offer the best bang for the buck.

I'm with you on that one. I have two Tendon ropes and I really like them.

I still have a Edelweiss 10.5mm which I really like too but don't use that much


Miguel75

24-May-2010
4:10:51 PM

On 24/05/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>Edelweiss make sweet ropes. Don't be so hard on yourself, Miguel.

Thanks WW. My comment was more to do with my limited rope handling experience. I absolutely love my rope! It handles well, knots great and after a stack of newbie abuse (self belay TR experimentation & rapping everything in site ) it still looks & feels perfect. Plus it's a super funky blue/red weave. If you look at it for too long in the sunlight you'll have a seizure!

Once I get my new 10.8 I'll have more of an idea.

gfdonc

24-May-2010
4:12:05 PM

I bought a BlueWater 9.7mm from Rock Hardware a while ago now - it is still in very good shape, probably worn better than any other rope, and has low impact force comparable to the Beals.

Cost a bit more but I reckon it's been worth it.
I suspect it's about to become my haul line on The Nose so might suffer some serious wear and tear.

citationx

24-May-2010
4:21:23 PM

On 24/05/2010 patto wrote:
>I own a Beal Flyer II for quite some time now and I have climbed on it
>across the world. It has barely worn in 4 years of medium use (i don't
>take that many lead falls). I'm surprise at your experience since the
>Flyer II is the stretchiest rope on the market except for the super skinnys.
> (Beals are very stretchy ropes generally, stretchy has its pros and cons.)

i second that. I only climb on beal ropes, they're all stretchy, soft falls etc, and the 10.2mm handles like <10mm edelrid or mammut in my experience using other people's ropes. Having said that my (beal) 9.4mm isn't hard to catch others on. It's the one iv'e been most rough with and used the most (most falls mileage etc) but surprisingly I found it is the best wearing out of my 4 beals...

darryn

24-May-2010
5:47:32 PM

I can't really comment on cheap vs expensive as I have always bought more expensive ropes believing that you get what you pay for... I could be wrong.

My most recent is a Mammut Supersafe, a fairly pricey rope, that had about 3 years of moderate outdoor use and which I have now retired to gym thrashing. It has stood up fairly well over time but has now begun to go soft and kinky right in the middle of the rope due to sheath slippage caused by constantly lowering to the mid point of the rope from both ends... thanks to all the climbs in the gym being about the same height. Anyone else experienced this on a Supersafe or any other rope?

Paul

24-May-2010
5:56:05 PM

In my experience from the ropes which I have bought.

Edelrid = excelent value, good ropes but wear quicker than sterlings
Sterling = great rope, long lasting and expensive
Rocca = monmey which should have been spent on an edelrid
Mammut = nice handelling, bit more expensive than edelrid for about the same quallity
Blue water = not the besting handelling rope but the longest lasting as far as rearing out.

my next one will probably be another edelrid.


aarond

24-May-2010
7:13:06 PM

On 24/05/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>Edelweiss make sweet ropes. Don't be so hard on yourself, Miguel.

OK my second rope was an edelweiss ally. it haas had a long life but was horrible to handle. was 10.3mm and felt like 11+mm. it was very wirey (some people like that) but i have also found the core and sheath have twisted and stretched about each other so has constant kinks in it. the entire rope is like its a flat bit of spaghetti now 2 years later.
since then i have had a bue water eliminator 10.2mm and its been so so good, never had any dramas cept the cut from a sharp edge, was very cheap too. ive got another blue water again!
ive used alot of other peoples ropes and brands, and ive found the cheap eliminator to be the best handling so far

my bad experience with Edelweiss means ill never get another one.

dave

24-May-2010
7:16:22 PM

Who sells Edelweiss in Vic? I have never seen them in shops here...


Miguel75

24-May-2010
8:50:20 PM

On 24/05/2010 dave wrote:
>Who sells Edelweiss in Vic? I have never seen them in shops here...

Not sure, I picked mine up OS.


Macciza

24-May-2010
9:44:18 PM

Where is the 'Best ropes ropes are found or given to you . . .' choice?
Mind you my current rope feels a bit weirdly glazed but hopefully that wears out . . .
MM

linze

24-May-2010
10:09:51 PM

i bought one of those czech ropes that retial for about $100 less then everything else (singing rock i think)... it was really soft and awsome to belay with...for about 5 minutes, then it sucked..for about 5 minutes ...and then it was ready to be retired... dont buy one.... i have gone back to mammuts....


wallwombat

25-May-2010
12:17:24 AM

On 24/05/2010 linze wrote:
>i bought one of those czech ropes that retial for about $100 less then
>everything else (singing rock i think)... it was really soft and awsome
>to belay with...for about 5 minutes, then it sucked..for about 5 minutes
>...and then it was ready to be retired... dont buy one.... i have gone
>back to mammuts....

Tendon ropes are from the Czech Republic and they are awesome.


rodw

25-May-2010
7:02:10 AM

Agreed my new rope is a tendon and its great.

Pommy

25-May-2010
8:21:01 AM

I have a Sterling which seems to be lasting 2-3 times as long as cheaper ropes. It's getting plenty of work with all my hangdogging, and is still almost in perfect condition after a year and a half.


Snappy

25-May-2010
8:21:29 AM

Agreed, I have used several tendon 10.5s and liked them all, I now own a 9.8 and 10.2 (I think??) Tendon Ambition, I rate both of those highly.

Linze

25-May-2010
10:13:35 AM

On 25/05/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>
>Tendon ropes are from the Czech Republic and they are awesome.

i double checked (czeched??) and it was a singing rock... it was def sub awsome...

There are 21 messages in this topic.