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Supraspinatus tear - how did you get back climbing

simo_tele

28-Aug-2012
6:18:37 PM

So very brief background:
Summer of 2010/11, when I went from ocassionally climbing to getting much more into it I developed some pretty sore tendonitis in the shoulders and biceps. Rested for a few months, light physio and eased back into it.
Was all good, climbed all year, got myotherapy, continued light physio to work on complimentary muscle groups.

2 months ago whilst climbing at Nowra I fell but held with one hand, twisted a wrenched my right shoulder. Physio (whom I trust) dignosed it as a partial supraspinatus tear and judging by the pain and immoility I was agreeing right along with him.

Too the point: That was 2 months ago. I have been on top of my physio exercises and it is recovering to the extent that I can do theraband exercises that I could not previously manage and the range of motion has improved/returned. Day to day it is much much better...but it still feels tender in certain circumstances and often aches when I run (generally after ~40 minutes or so, assume it's the bouncing/jarring and swinging of the shoulder).
Still get discomfort if I sleep with my right arm tucked up under the pillow (ie: extended shoulder with weight pushing down on it) and ocassionally when I forget the injury is still there and rapidly extend or lift something at chest height or above.

My physio has been great and is happy with my progress but we all know the goal is to get out climbing again.
Has anyone here had a similar tear and how did you go about getting back climbing?

It feels like it's at that stage where it could either be a good thing to get back into very light work to build it back up or it could possibly go the other way and aggravate/damage the shoulder.

thanks for the thoughts.


The good Dr

28-Aug-2012
7:06:08 PM

Get an MRI and an accurate diagnosis from a shoulder specialist. There may be problems that are not apparent to the physio which are difficult to diagnose (eg SLAP tears and AC joint damage, or a combination of damaged tissue). An accurate diagnosis will allow the specialists to determine the proper treatment.

That is both from my own experience (with succesful treatment after correct diagnosis) and from watching a number friends rely on non-specialists who have ultimately fuched their shoulders and stopped climbing for good.

citationx

28-Aug-2012
7:27:48 PM

On 28/08/2012 The good Dr wrote:
>have ultimately fuched their shoulders and stopped climbing for good.

Jeez. we're all little ODH wannabes now aren't we. Why bother with the pathetic attempts to soften this word. If you're going to allow fuch when it's clear what is being said, why not just let everyone say f---.

citationx

28-Aug-2012
10:29:13 PM

You really trawled all my history because you didn't like the point I made? That must've been what, 2003? That's a lot of history to go through. But I suppose if you can tell me that half a million sites use fuch then clearly you really need to get out more, so I shouldn't find it surprising. I suppose you're so fuching old you probably invented the phrase. Or you're trying to make up for it by trying to be cool with the internet speak. Here's a good link for you http://xkcd.com/1083/
Anyway, Again, I guess my point is that we all know what the word is supposed to be, so if we're not going to mod the exact word (and usage) because of one letter, I don't really think there's much point banning the actual word in the first place.
(post edit: maybe a mod can move these few posts to a new one, clearly it's major thread drift)

turtlespit

29-Aug-2012
7:11:03 AM

Here's a blog post from Dave MacLeod's online climbing coach blog about taking time off for injury:

http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com.au/2012/03/injuries-problem-with-lay-off.html

dalai

29-Aug-2012
9:05:34 AM

On 28/08/2012 citationx wrote:
>(post edit: maybe a mod can move these few posts to a new one, clearly
>it's major thread drift)

Can only move whole topics to different sections - can't split topics...

Personally I agree with citationx. Doesn't add to the conversation at all.

Wendy

29-Aug-2012
9:15:56 AM

After a misdiagnosed shoulder injury, i'd repeat the mri suggestion, esp. as catching yourself on an arm is a common way of doing a slap tear. Mine felt exactly like i had just wrenched my shoulder, not even particularly badly. I had gps, physios and ultrasonographers fail to diagnose mine. Turns out I had a massive cartilage tear. The physio may have a reasonable idea it's a supraspinatus tear, but without imaging, it's still a guess. And if you still have symptoms after this long, it might well be something less prone to healing by itself. Minor muscle tears should be a lot better after 2 months.


tnd

29-Aug-2012
10:15:38 AM

Back on topic...to the OP: I tore my supraspinatus late last year and it turned out to be the least problematic of the numerous injuries I've had in the last 20 months. I did it by gastoning with my hand at about waist height in an awkward traverse dead point move. It was fine after a month. If you injured yourself by wrenching one shoulder and you're having trouble after two months, especially pain while sleeping (usually associated with tendon/cartilage/joint issues) I'd follow the advice of others here and see a doctor for ultrasound or MRI.


davidn

29-Aug-2012
10:19:59 AM

When the muscle went, did you feel the tear in your chest or neck? I'm wondering if a tear in this area might have been one part of my shoulder collapse (never got proper imagery, too many CTs recently).


shortman

29-Aug-2012
10:25:31 AM

I believe the term is more clever as opposed to cleverer CliffD. For f*cks sake, get it together ya old bastard!

;)

dalai

29-Aug-2012
1:32:49 PM

Back on topic please, or I will start nuking irrelevant posts...


The good Dr

29-Aug-2012
3:34:41 PM

As Wendy mentioned, the other issue is potential misdiagnosis. Treatments in these cases may cause further damage, which is even more f---ed (citationx recommended alternative). Due to the complexities of the joint and the masses of tissue involved, X-rays and ultrasound may not reveal the extent or nature of the injury. MRI generally provides the most comprehensive information.

simo_tele

29-Aug-2012
4:22:43 PM

thanks for your thoughts/experiences.
Definitely felt wrenching when it went. Guess I will go get an MRI and get it checked out properly judging by the length of time since the injury and the continuing symptoms.

thanks again.

widewetandslippery

29-Aug-2012
4:35:49 PM

I,M glad I haven't asked for posterior and far posterior hip pain help from these fellas.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

29-Aug-2012
4:45:53 PM

On 29/08/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I,M glad I haven't asked for posterior and far posterior hip pain help
>from these fellas.

Why?
Apart from thread drift, you would probably receive half OK advice from persons similarly afflicted before you?
☺

kieranl

29-Aug-2012
5:10:35 PM

On 29/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>... I
>don't suggest going to your GP and asking for an MRI.
GPs cannot refer for MRI in Australia. Has to be a specialist.

davepalethorpe

29-Aug-2012
5:18:34 PM

On 29/08/2012 kieranl wrote:
>GPs cannot refer for MRI in Australia. Has to be a specialist.

They certainly can refer for MRIs (as can physios etc.), it is just that you will not receive a Medicare rebate for the service. However, at most MRI centres, the cost for privately referred scans is less than for those referred by specialists, which helps to offset some of the cost. However, in this instance, I don't believe that gps can request for gandilinium enhanced scans, so prob best to see specialist first!!


Eduardo Slabofvic

29-Aug-2012
5:44:42 PM

How much does an MRI cost?

davepalethorpe

29-Aug-2012
5:54:39 PM

On 29/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>davepalethorpe misquoted me by blending my comments with Kieran's.

Fixed!

davepalethorpe

29-Aug-2012
5:57:01 PM

On 29/08/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>How much does an MRI cost?

$200-300 for private these days.

There are 29 messages in this topic.