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another noobs finger question...

matt

18-May-2007
10:34:20 AM

G'day all;

Around late last year i got back into the climbing thing and also started wearing a ring on the right hand ring finger. Most times i was smart enough to take it off before climbing but still wore it in a weigths gym until it was bent out of shape (ie not round) and couldnt remove it.

I got into burnely a hand full of times when it got to a point the inside squishy bit between the nuckle (hand) and first joint was very pain full to touch. I stopped climbing (due to a dislocated shoulder again) and now 3 months down the track mr physio said i could climb again. Currently, if i do any load bearing on it, it will still hurt alot, and once i let go of stuff (holds, barbells etc) i have to manally straighten it. This only happens with heavy loads, not when picking up car keys etc.

And the annoying point, the same spot on my left hand hurts exactly the same though nothing has happened to it! I havent worn the ring since it started happening 3 months ago.

My question is, should it have healed with in the 3 months it was given to rest or is something still wrong?? Also, how exactly does finger taping work and whats the right way to do it??
Thanks all

--matt

widewetandslippery

18-May-2007
11:08:42 AM

You should become a photographer

JamieF

18-May-2007
11:12:34 AM

>Also, how exactly does finger taping work and whats the right way to do it??

Some info on how it works or more importantly how it doesn't work...

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/FingerTaping.htm

Note the title: "Tape and Other Catastrophes"

IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-May-2007
11:15:41 AM

At the recent Climbing Festival workshop that Julian Saunders ran, he pretty much dissed the whole concept of benefit to be gained by taping fingers ...
A search on his posts may reveal more info if you care to follow it up?

Stuey

18-May-2007
11:44:59 AM

On 18/05/2007 M9iswhereitsat wrote:
>At the recent Climbing Festival workshop that Julian Saunders ran, he pretty
>much dissed the whole concept of benefit to be gained by taping fingers
>

For me there is some truth in this. One thing that fixed my injured fingers was NOT taping them anymore. That and serious amounts of icing.

Organ Pipe

18-May-2007
11:50:39 AM

On 18/05/2007 Stuey wrote:
>That and serious amounts of icing.

In the words of Homer J Simpson:

Mmmmm Icing!

DaCrux

18-May-2007
12:04:20 PM

I "overstretched" (to the point where it went "pop" but didn't actually snap) one of the flexor tendons in my ring finger about 3 weeks ago and have pretty much the same symptoms as you (I can still actively straighten it though).
I've been going to a physio and it's slowly getting better - with strengthening and stretching exercises and lots of Voltaren Gel.
It's probably best that you get your finger assessed by someone who specialises in sports medicine. You have at least 2 sports med clinics in Melbourne
http://www.melbsportsmed.com.au/index.html
http://www.opsmc.com.au/
The latter even has a physician who specialises in climbing medicine.

ghost

18-May-2007
1:11:25 PM

dougo

18-May-2007
1:15:59 PM

wtf? that should come with a warning label attached. please tell me that's not a climbers hand

DaCrux

18-May-2007
1:20:41 PM

nah, looks like it's been crushed, chopped off and re-attached
btw ghost, some people are having lunch

ghost

18-May-2007
1:26:17 PM

>btw ghost, some people are having lunch

6å[ý(zÒÛ/Y>ü×Ÿ˜(CÚQ¥Y&ËàÏ\;é_ð`çWÐ/¸09œ]<ÙkP¸Tu|äÇÚµiþÇ?#Yñ¥ÍÅP¦šPwz1ø³PÝeHrŸbF_¡˜ÑÎ½Šùìü•x)'ÊA5á#H¢Nœçâ-<„8Íc«¤S•^>µ&ûˆo¹š¹ö\Ž Y\G"‘ç6ž¯L~52ðpLç:+³«¹äý?hÄßÄFeO>ÚI7È³EatNÚîÍŒ2r)œrŽòHç¡AÐil¯¼¡$'›j‚Xì Èçž›i#1à ‡‰a-4{üUÌL™b?ÆNÚ*t1Æpjz(¬¤2¬\æ©ž(ð\´ÊagMc¼<¥ºÁÍ¦˜!7‹1h( ÛÐšø…ÿm£mˆQÔØ”V !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ghost

18-May-2007
1:30:02 PM

On 18/05/2007 matt wrote:

>My question is...

http://www.climbinginjuries.com/Finger.htm

DaCrux

18-May-2007
1:34:39 PM

welcome back Hexy :)

dougal

18-May-2007
2:14:14 PM

Take the advice and go see the folks who deal with this sort of thing every day.

matt

18-May-2007
4:01:43 PM

On 18/05/2007 DaCrux wrote:
>http://www.opsmc.com.au/
>The latter even has a physician who specialises in climbing medicine.

Intersting info that. I've been going there for about 3 months now for my cirus shoulders and every 2 weeks i ask "can i climb yet...?" and nothing has ever been mentioned to me. Wil have to sus it out.

Thanks everyone for the links will give me another excuse not to study a little bit more this weekend whilst i have a room mate moving out and a temporary room mate moving in... anyone want in?

I'll do some more reading and ask mr physio about the climbing physio and see what happens with it all... I've hopefully got my first climb in 3.5 months tomorro at cliff so lets see how it goes...

thanks all

--matt

steph

23-May-2007
2:01:35 PM

On 18/05/2007 dougo wrote:
>wtf? that should come with a warning label attached. please tell me that's
>not a climbers hand

Looks photoshopped to me? is that 4 real or what...

There are 16 messages in this topic.