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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
QUT and affiliates sued for $8m Kangaroo Point 6-Jun-2017 At 9:41:45 AM Wendy
Message
On 6/06/2017 Paul wrote:
>On 6/06/2017 patto wrote:
>>On 5/06/2017 rightarmbad wrote:
>>>Being well over 6 foot and bigger than average, I always grab the belayers
>>>side of the rope as they begin to lower me.
>>>Many people get quite a shock at how much force is required to hold
>and
>>>lower a heavier climber.
>>>Especially if they are using Gri Gri's.
>>>I have done this since being dropped several meters twice by very experienced
>>>belayers that simply had never had to lower somebody much heavier than
>>>themselves.
>>
>>It is sad that you cannot trust your belayers and feel you have to do
>>this. Though you are certainly not the only one who does this. (I've
>>done this with inexperienced belayers)
>>
>>Just shows that experience isn't always a good measure of ability.
>>
>>It really isn't that hard to start off locked off with high tension and
>>grip and reduce until the climber lowers at a reasonable speed.
>>
>>(The Grigri doesn't help with this process but any 'experienced' belayer
>>should know this.)
>
>If you have concern about a belayer being able to hold and lower you,
>would you not be concerned about their ability to catch you when you fall
>as well?
>
>
Agreed, I'd be way more concerned about their ability to catch! Surely a more useful solution to the problem would be some controlled practice? The only other time I have heard anyone advocate holding the belay side of the rope when lowering was Bomberpro. Nuff said. Has anyone actually tried lowering themselves hand over hand like this anyway? It would demonstrate why we use belay devices. chances of holding yourself without any added friction - FA. But if they anyone would like to demonstrate otherwise on the rap off the back of the pharos ...

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