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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Technical Ecstasy Direct - North Grampians

Goshen
22-Feb-2016
11:24:11 PM
For the trad enthusasts out there, here's a video of my recent ascent of a classic line - the thin seam of Technical Ecstasy Direct, Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre, Grampians. It's been a while since I was this excited to climb a 23, but very happy to send this one on my second shot; with only a very quick brush and inspection for a crucial microwire on the way down from climbing Mania.

Went for the onsight a couple of weeks ago; but fell at the crux (luckily, the poor wire held), and managed a few more moves before escaping back into the grade 20 line for the rest of the climb.

I know there's a certain reputation and sandbagging that comes with Lindorff routes, but I do think (IMHO) that an extra grade in this instance is probably warranted :-)



dave1962
23-Feb-2016
5:45:27 AM
cool video, cheers
ps this climb is graded 24 in Sublime Climbs.. edited by Kevin Lindorff et al
Jayford4321
23-Feb-2016
8:59:03 AM
On 22/02/2016 Goshen wrote:
>For the trad enthusasts out there,

>with only a very quick brush and inspection for a crucial microwire on the way down

>Went for the onsight a couple of weeks ago;

So with all the beta from the brushing an inspection U went for an onsight?
I'm supprizd U dint put a few rings in it 2, 2 make Ur onsight safer.

johnny and ODH would be proud of U.

Goshen
23-Feb-2016
9:01:11 AM
no, no... sorry it wasn't clear? I went for the onsight 2 weeks ago and fell. Came back for the redpoint on Saturday - had no qualms about checking out something further on the climb since I'd already been on it and failed.
Jayford4321
23-Feb-2016
9:06:24 AM
ok, i read it differently and nearly gagged by doin so.

good vid btw.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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