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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
La demande, verdon gorge 12-Jun-2014 At 5:45:59 PM Vwills
Message
No proposal :)

In Northern Italy we spent 6 days at Abbadia Lariana, just north of Lecco and climbed at Torrette, Galbiate and la discoteca. Some good climbs, some polished ones at Galbiate. It rained quite a bit so we didn't venture higher. A good base to visit Milan.
We then went to arco for 2 weeks. Anything bolted in the 80s, or in walking distance is pretty horrible. We went to Nago a couple of times. The high sectors were quite good, with the odd horror slimefest. The lower crag had good routes but anything under 6c was polished and felt way harder and runout, and the 6c we did felt like a 24.
Nago belvedere- similar story.
Eventually we ignored weather forecasts and hurtled up a multipitch on placcate zebrata which was quite fun. We also found some good crags near Sarche- Sisyphus, and a pleasant crag on a river- val d'algone.

We then moved to Ala and had 2 half days at ceredo which had some good routes, and visited venice.

From there we drove to finale ligure. We were better at crag selection by this time. Climbed at monte cucco- teatro/anti teatro which I really enjoyed apart from the routes on the centre of the wall which were super slimy. Also roca di corno, bastionata, the 280m multipitch grimonetta on monte sordo, the 400m sea level traverse at capo Noli, and the most memorable grotto dell Edera which involved access through a Cave into a large cylindrical doline with some really nice routes.

Finally we went to Val di Velo and climbed on paretone. This valley had heaps of nice looking limestone, and a visit to the caves at Toirano was fun. And val pennavaire where we climbed at colosseum. It started raining before I could do anything at the next sector, Euksol, but it looked like a great wall with heaps of tufa routes. The area covered by the oltrefinale guidebook, which the last 2 crags are included in seems a bit newer, hence less polished and better bolted, though grades especially at the lower end seem a bit harder. Maybe I was still in the kalymnos mindset however!

We had actually intended to go to the Dolomites for a couple of weeks, but many ski resorts had extended their season and none of the refuges seemed to be opening before June, so will be coming back in September some other year to get up there.

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