On 25-Apr-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>(snip)
>What I would recommend to a first-timer with limited aid experience is
>lots of rack. They want to have a range of stuff left at the top of every
>pitch because they have no idea what gear will go in. Inexperienced people
>probably shouldn't be running it out, because they may not know the difference
>between a bombproof piece and something which could blow when they top step.
>(snip)
Good advice and equally applies to onsighting trad too, especially when gear is needed for constructing belays (perhaps even more so on multipitch)...
Re top-stepping; that’s probably the hardest thing to do consistently for “limited aid experience” climbers and Ozy’s gentle rightward leanings don’t make it an easy place to learn that art.
Re taking falls on Ozy; most pitches offer clean fall potential on the route, though I acknowledge that weird things can happen even in the cleanest of falls.
;-)