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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Summerday Valley Wall Of Fools [ Summerday Guide | Images ] 

Author
Milupa
Bob Saki
21-Aug-2018
7:48:20 PM
Hi All,

Been a while since I last posted.
Thankfully I have improved my climbing. Which brings me to the topic, I recently climbed this one and found it pretty hard for the grade, anyone agree?

Also heading up to Buller this weekend to climb around the waterfall area and may have a spare spot in the car if anyone needs a lift to say Mirimbah.


jayford4321
22-Aug-2018
3:31:44 AM
On 21-Aug-2018 Bob Saki wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Been a while since I last posted.
>Thankfully I have improved my climbing. Which brings me to the topic,
>I recently climbed this one and found it pretty hard for the grade, anyone
>agree?
>
>Also heading up to Buller this weekend to climb around the waterfall area
>and may have a spare spot in the car if anyone needs a lift to say Mirimbah.
>
Using Chocky to spray?
It's graded fairly, though I note KP downgraded it on thecrg. . .
kp
22-Aug-2018
6:16:18 PM
I thought it was hard (bouldery) at 28, but no where near as hard as zero blunder (hello oldshool testpiece that kicks my arse).

Milupa was originally graded 30/31!!! Downgraded to 28 in mentz guide.... but then strangely upgraded to 29 in montys colourful book.

Best photo ever of Martin Sheel swinging around in Rock magazine. Anyone got a copy of that classic photo?

widewetandslippery
22-Aug-2018
6:53:51 PM
I thought it was graded on the same scale as if serpentine was 31, your terminated was also graded using the same scale, they,'ve all gone down. NB locals wouldn't lend Martin a drill so he bolted it originally with a drill bit held in multigrips.
Bob Saki
22-Aug-2018
9:34:29 PM
Thanks Guys,

To be frank this grade is probably as far as I'll go (I climb the same way Tony Lockett played football with similar physique and grace) and whilst I have done a few climbs at and around this grade I just found this one particularly hard.

Kudos to those who climb it well without much difficulty.


There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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