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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps? 11-Jul-2017 At 11:43:38 PM One Day Hero

Message

On 11/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
>Anyway, he was asking about araps, not hard sport routes

I thought the original question was about holds on sport routes in the Gramps? This is getting confusing.

>i still have a swag of 25ish ones in relatively recent history,
>i'm not dropping into the teens!

You do gr 27 and 28 funky trenches. At the Point (fair bit of crimp and pull) I didn't see you on anything harder than 22 (and even 22 involved substantial whinging).

>my argument is not about people focusing on that one soft tick, it
>is about actually becoming a better climber.

I don't think people want to be better climbers, they want soft ticks on daytrips and short weekends. I reckon (it's probably been thunk a thousand times before) that you can sort of remain good as a weekend climber, but you can never get good. Getting good needs months at the crag. You can get strong though, and unfortunately for the purists, strong trumps good on lots of routes.

>Unless i was super tall any skinny, in which case, the vertical
>face would probably be easier still.

Exactly! You don't really need body tension to climb most vertical face things. Just be tall, and be able to pull with fingers and push with toes on mingers. How floppy are people if they can't pull down and reach on vertical blueys stuff without body-waving off the wall?