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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps? 10-Jul-2017 At 3:29:14 PM One Day Hero

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Yeah, look, I know some climbers who think and talk like that. Could be legit, could be a character, hard to tell.

Anyway, I probably agree with Wendy and Stugang about climbing training more than I disagree.

If you want to be a competent all round climber, you have to get out on rock a lot. This 'totally real, not made up dude from Texas' hasn't expressed any interest in being a good climber though. He just wants to get strong and attach the biggest number possible to himself, with minimal time on rock. Obviously I don't have much interest in that approach to climbing, but it's a free country.

I assume the approach will be to find an overbolted, overgraded no-star classic, engage in a multi-weekend siege, and recreate all facets of the route on the home hangboard for after-work simulation (yay, what fun). You don't really need technique for that shit. Just rote learn all thirty moves of the route, develop sufficient strength and power-endurance in the fingers, consume enough empowering climbing memes to keep the boredom suppressed, and a shaking, wobbling, 'glorious send' will happen eventually.

That's what most climbers seem to want, and the hangboard delivers results.