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Palm Beach bouldering - now definitely high ball

surfziggy

9-Jun-2016
2:41:47 PM

Well, I guess it shouldn't be a surprise but the sand under the boulders at Palmy is gone! Due to the wrath of the killer east coast low, the problems now all start a good meter or so higher. This would of course be a good thing, but for the fact that there's now a lot of exposed rocks under the problems. The classic overhang traverse is one of the worst affected. It's now highball and the last part is over a sketchy mix of shale, rocks and broken bottles. The high traverse on the south boulder is now a lot higher and there's exposed rock under the crux. So if you're headed up this way for a boulder make sure you bring a mat (you didn't need this in the past due to the sand).
The good thing is that there's some new problems and that some have changed character. The north boulder low traverse has gone from V3 to V0! The harder problems like 'problem of palm beach' and 'don't know' are now longer and better.

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/northern-beaches/area/143967444

Eduardo Slabofvic

9-Jun-2016
3:49:29 PM

Wow, that looks steep.

surfziggy

9-Jun-2016
4:03:16 PM

hahaha yes. The waves were so big it's turned palmy 90 degrees counter clockwise.

E. Wells

9-Jun-2016
8:50:39 PM

I had my worse climbing related accident there at that steep boulder. I had a pair of brand new vision velcros and went to push off the top of that steep boulder after climbing it. One of my feet stayed in a small pocket and i speared the ground. Sank into the sand for as long as it took to breath again. No fractures but my spine has never been the same.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Jun-2016
9:02:20 PM

> but for the fact that there's now a lot of exposed rocks under the problems

The erosion there was actually worse back in the mid '60's after a storm then...

Those boulders were climbed all over by kids back then, long before the terms bouldering or high-ball were invented...
Thanks for the memories!

There are 5 messages in this topic.