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Crag ideas for a euro trip?

zarb

22-Oct-2015
2:50:45 PM

So I'm planning a Europe trip for next year, going from somewhere in Italy, heading up to the Austrian border, then back down and following the coast all the way down to Greece passing through Croatia etc.

Can anyone shed some light on any major climbing hubs along the way, and which ones we can get to via train and which ones need a private vehicle? The more Mediterranean island paradise the better.

Eduardo Slabofvic

22-Oct-2015
4:25:29 PM

Hello Zarb,

I just got back from Corsica and it was great. It's Mediterranean, but maybe not what your after.

You'd need a car. Bavella was great. Granite, but not like your typical granite crag. Quite variable, with steep areas, pockets, vertical walls, plus the usual cracks and slabs.

The island is quite rocky and very big. There's loads of different climbing areas. There's a dual language guide book for more details.

Have fun

Vwills

23-Oct-2015
1:54:14 PM

Last year we flew into Milan and drove to Abbadia Lariana ( or something like that ) which is on a train line just north of Lecco. There was a nearby crag I think called Discoteca which wasn't bad. But pretty much we had to drive to most crags. Used the trains for sightseeing days into the cities.
The trouble with crags close to public transport is they are very polished. Arco is another major climbing centre, but the popular closest crags were horrible I thought. It took about 5 days before we realised this and went to some good crags near Sarche, and up in the hills to the north. We also spent 2 half days at Ceredo, and based ourselves at Ai, also on the rail line north of Verona. This was handy for a trip to Venice, but still needed a car to get to the crag which was up a large hill about 20 min away.
Also spent time around Finale Ligure, which had some accessible crags. Free bikes came where we stayed, though again it was quite hilly. There is also a huge climbing guidebook to the Pennavaire valley to the west. Did some nice climbs around Toirano, but again cars are very handy. You may have more luck in the Dolomites. It was too early in the season when we were there (may). Crete was great fun exploring near Kapetaniana and plakias and Agio tfearano? but again car essential. Can't go past Kalymnos. Rhodes also has some crags. I think getting a car is the theme here.....

gfdonc

23-Oct-2015
2:42:53 PM

You need to indicate what sort of climbing you're seeking. Sport? Multipitch trad? Hard/easy?

If I were doing what you're doing I'd schedule a few days at Paklenica in Croatia. I haven't climbed there specifically (have climbed elsewhere in Croatia) but it's on my list.

If you wanted to go further up into Austria I can make some recommendations. The closest I've climbed to where you'll be is eastern Austria, long multipitch or short sport. I've climbed at The Rote Wand which was good:
http://www.bergfex.at/sommer/steiermark/touren/wanderung/3463,rote-wand-steinbockparadies/
(note there are at least two Rote Wand's in Austria, and the other one is better known).
Only a short drive up from the Slovenian border.

RNM

23-Oct-2015
5:12:24 PM

I thought Paklenica was not that great on my visit. All the stuff that was easy to get to was super polished. Usual story.

Havr (island off Croatian coast) was fun.

I rated Meteora - nice change from all the sport limestone that for me often feels much the same. Conglomerate climbing, all the easy routes are old school with funky old door knocker bolts - the type you would moor a boat to on a wharf. The run outs were large on these routes, but the climbing farily easy, so it added spice to the adventure. The more modern 'hard' routes (above grade 16?) were all well bolted, few run outs. The conglomerate towers were individual peaks, so at the top of most there were old log books. And the area is a World Heritage Site - there are old monestaries on top of many towers, that used to be accessed by rope. In spring the fields were lush and green, with flowers and tortoises. And many of the climbers are Saxons (Eastern Germany) with big beards and friendly smiles. They would buy a loaf of bread and two bottles of beer on the way to the crag. After the first multi pitch they would drink a beer for lunch and eat the bread, then laze in the sun. Mid afternoon they would do the second climb of the day, before downing the second beer and wandering back to camp for a BBQ and wine.

Good times, you should go there.

:)

phillipivan

23-Oct-2015
8:26:07 PM

Back when I first started climbing I climbed a little bit of sport at the crags near Lake Bled in Slovenia. I have no idea what the harder climbing is like, harder I'd guess (on limestone). But, since it's the greatest country on earth, I'd probably go there on a euro climbing trip.

The first night I arrived in Ljubljana I shared a hotel with Cradle of Filth and the Butthole Surfers. Great fun in the breakfast room.

mikllaw

24-Oct-2015
5:56:35 AM

Get the Jingo Wobbly guide, 7000 crags.

Zarb

24-Oct-2015
3:56:42 PM

Thanks for all the info. I have a lot to process now.

I was planning on taking a sport rack and harness shoes etc, and trying to find a rope when we arrive. Is gear relatively easy to find along the way?

Eduardo Slabofvic

26-Oct-2015
11:01:41 AM

In France, yes. Your average sports store will have ropes and gear

martym

26-Oct-2015
5:35:28 PM

Italy is pretty hard by public transport. Best bet is to try to team up with climbers at campsites (Arco / Finale / Dolomites) otherwise hitchhiking is not impossible - try approaching people who look friendly in car parks... Arco is apparently great for cheap gear though I didn't find anything outstandingly cheap - still cheaper to buy online from the states... and after all you will spend on accommodation and travel, what's $5 here and there on gear?

Austria - Imst has some fun climbing with ok public transport (we were driving but could see the buses from the crags!) Haven't climbed elsewhere in Austria...

Slovenia - We hiked & climbed from Lake Bohinj over the mountains and via several of the crags there. Great walking, ok climbing. This is the closest to "Australian" you'll get in southern Europe - virtually untouched wilderness up there!

I love Paklenica. When climbing lime stone - expect polish!
The great thing about Paklenica is that the campsites/accommodation are all at the beach & filled with climbers. It's a 2km hike into the national park every day, but you can usually hitch a lift.

That's as far south as I have been so far... Depending on how long you plan to travel - you should be fine to balance climbing with tourism.

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