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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Squamish

Robbie
19-Jun-2015
1:12:11 PM
G'day All, I am wanting do a climbing trip to Squamish in the near future, and need some intel or (Pros and Cons) for the said outing. The usual stuff like where to stay, transport options, insurance etc. Cheers and thanks for any feedback. Robbie

Superstu
19-Jun-2015
2:04:59 PM
Go robbie!!

The campground at the base of The Chief is the place to be. There is a noticeboard and a communal set of tables to comingle.

I'm sure you could do the trip with public transport but being Canadia life may be a little easier with a hire car.

Squamish the town has everything you need, supermarket, climbing store, cafes.

There is one climbing area close to town that is really cute with signposts and trails to all the classics, even seats to belay from.

Get your weekly wash at the sports centre pool.

Look out for the berry van!!!

Weather can be a problem. Great when its great, but long spells of rain could ruin a short holiday. Having a car can give you an option to bail to somewhere else to do some exploring or head to Skaha which has more stable weather but smaller cliffs and less of a scene. I kinda liked Skaha but perhaps its not for everyone.



Robbie
19-Jun-2015
3:26:06 PM
Thanks Stu.

JamesMc
19-Jun-2015
4:29:52 PM
When are you going Robbie? I expect to be there early August

JamesMc

trog
20-Jun-2015
4:14:40 AM
Don't do it! If you're anything like me you'll be forced to realise how crap your crack technique is, and how much you escape onto face holds while pretending to jam.

Also just how much your balls can shrink on slabs...

Otherwise it's great. Well apart from the rain... but I think that is overblown (well until october... then all bets are off). Access to a car is good to escape the rain (especially for wage slaves who can only get out on specific days) - skaha, Washington pass, leavenworth etc all often have different weather with a sub 5hr drive.

Good alpine rock adventures around too if that's your thing. Check out slesse, nesakwatch, the tantalus

robbie
20-Jun-2015
12:06:43 PM
Hi James, July\August is the aim. Happy to hook up. As yet I do not have any fixed plans. PM or e-mail me if you are interested. Robbie.

Also, Trog\Mark thanks for your feedback mate.
beryllium10
23-Jun-2015
3:05:49 PM
Might be a good year for it. Pacific NW is having a very dry summer. It got hot starting in early May, which doesn't normally happen until July 5th. This following a winter with less than 50% snowpack almost everywhere. So routes that are regularly damp or take a while to dry out may be good this summer. Enjoy ...
patto
23-Jun-2015
5:24:36 PM
Like others have said having a car makes life alot easier. You are paying enough to get over there so you might as well have a car.

Also don't forget to visit the local brewery:
http://www.howesound.com/
capt_planit
24-Jun-2015
11:27:41 AM
Heading for the Saskatchewan Glacier myself. My Da (always looking out for me) messaged me that there is/will be record heat in Western Canada. Could make for dry rock. Snow melt is at least two to three weeks ahead of schedule in most areas. Good for climbing, bad for planet.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24-Jun-2015
11:50:38 AM
On 24/06/2015 capt_planit wrote:
>(snip)there is/will be record heat in Western Canada.
>Could make for dry rock. Snow melt is at least two to three weeks ahead
>of schedule in most areas. Good for climbing, bad for planet.

A heads up of sorts, for what it is worth.
Not that long ago when similar conditions were experienced in the European Alps, I got the very strong impression that a lot of classic routes were deemed to be a lot more dangerous than normal due to greater rockfall hazard, as there was less snow/ice consolidating high located fractured rubble...
capt_planit
7-Jul-2015
12:01:21 PM
Er, this might be relevant to your plans. There was smoke pouring over a ridge above our glacier in Alberta as well-you get used to it, I guess. Good luck. c_p


trog
8-Jul-2015
3:20:01 AM
Yeah, I'm in N Van and couldn't see the city yesterday, if it smelt like eucalyptus it'd feel like a Sydney summer...

http://www.ctvnews.ca/canada/as-seen-from-space-wildfire-smoke-blankets-parts-of-b-c-1.2455408

It's a bit better today. Also, while it's smokey no fires are directly threatening Squamish AFAIK, with the Elaho one being closest, and the wind pushing the other way if anything.
james
8-Jul-2015
2:22:12 PM
On 24/06/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>A heads up of sorts, for what it is worth.
>Not that long ago when similar conditions were experienced in the European
>Alps, I got the very strong impression that a lot of classic routes were
>deemed to be a lot more dangerous than normal due to greater rockfall hazard,
>as there was less snow/ice consolidating high located fractured rubble...

its not worth much to be honest. Being at sea level, Squamish is hardly alpine enough for this to be an issue in July. ;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Jul-2015
10:54:42 PM
On 8/07/2015 james wrote:
>its not worth much to be honest. Being at sea level, Squamish is hardly alpine enough for this to be an issue in July. ;)

Fair enough.
Original Poster needs to watch out for the lost Half Dome shrapnel equivalents then!
Heh, heh, heh.

beean
11-Jul-2015
11:09:46 AM
It's smoky as hell right now all through western Canada. I don't expect the fires to go out anytime soon, usually there's plenty burning all summer. It is early this year though.

There's a permanent haze in the Bow Valley at the mo, making for +30 temps. I left Aus to get away from that rubbish. Alpine rock is pretty safe but don't bother with mixed routes.
james
11-Jul-2015
1:05:11 PM
I live in the Columbia Valley just west of you. Smoke haze is pretty common here in the summer, associated with hot temps but it doesn't cause them. Its meant to cool down a bit the next few days at least.
fish boy
15-Jul-2015
4:34:52 PM
I've been living in Squamish for a few years now....the campground is too expensive for a long stay. The Mamquam logging road is where all the legends live during summer.

Except for on Sunday, it hasn't rained for months...everything is dry...I was climbing alpine rock in Feb and it was dry. It won't rain until October.

The cracks are easy here, it's like sport climbing. No need to ever tape. Bring as many cams as you can. Hit me up for a tick list if ya want...or I'll lend you a guide.

One Day Hero
15-Jul-2015
4:38:01 PM
Oi, fishboy, clear out yer pm's a bit
fish boy
15-Jul-2015
4:53:41 PM
Yup...I got ya fb message, reply tomorrow ;)

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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