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Crag & Route Beta

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Recommendations for Europe May/June 2015 26-Nov-2014 At 4:04:24 PM vwills

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After spending February in morocco and march in turkey this year we did the following:
April: kalymnos and crete. Kalymnos needs no introduction, but if you want unpolished climber friendly seaside limestone than you can't go wrong. We only had 5 days on Crete and went to 4 different crags. Plakias and agio farango are right on the ocean and the crags around kapetania have ocean views.Not crowded, not tourist season, great weather and a fantastic part of Greece. Heaps cheaper than France or Italy.
may: Italy. We wanted to get to the Dolomites but the. weather and access weren't great. They had actually extended the ski season there was so much snow. We had 2 weeks around Arco, a week around Lecco on lake como and a week around finale Liguria. I would probably give the Lecco area a miss if I went again. Nice place especially if you dig tunnels, but the other areas are better for a climbing holiday. Arco was pretty polished at popular crags. After a week we figured out the crags to avoid, and did find some really nice places and wished we had done more multi pitches. Finale ligure was better with little polish and some great routes and lovely old scenery. We got an apartment pretty cheaply at residence Glicini on a weekly rate which was very convenient. The pennavaire valley which is next door is even newer in climbing development and has its own massive guidebook.
June: France. It was getting pretty hot. Verdon gorge was fantastic but hot. We based ourselves in Guillestre for 10 days (see Doug Bruce's bumbling around Briancon thread). Even at that Altitude we had a spate of days in the mid 30s but there is heaps to do on different types of rock. Also did a long day trip to ceuse. Spent a few days at st leger and a few routes nearby at Buis les Barronies.
There is rock everywhere!