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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Strangeness and Charm Video TR 21-May-2013 At 8:50:38 AM mellor

Message

The last 3 pitches were bolted Sunday. The bolt you backed off on only took 2 hits with the hammer to snap and go sailing into the gorge. It was a very old Rawlplug. Now its a shinny new fat 12mm dyna, with the same easy run out. You step down after clipping that bolt move left then up the groove 8m? to some really good gear/thread, then another bolt, its not bad at all. The top chains have also moved up and right a little (5m) so you have a good ledge stance at the chain instead of a slab hang. Also better for the rap back down to the hole. So now clip the old anchor as last runner and move up the slab easily to new double chain. You still need one bolt plate on the 4th pitch, or small wire, or just sling the chicken head 1m below. Would be nice to remove the old chain in the hole belay for aesthetics but need an imperial size spanner or shifter...
Chris Warner