On 5/10/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Ok, it is obvious from the pics that the original bolting was substandard,
>but placing hero loops on rings is bloody ridiculous.
>Either it is trad or it is spurt, and I can't imagine spurt climbers carrying
>tie offs, let alone fiddling them on.
It's actually a mixed route - 3 bolts and trad.
I have zero issue if the bolts were removed and then replaced with something better. But to just remove them when they have been in-place for 16 years and taken falls from a fair few people seems a bit pointless. Maybe a bolt fell out? That would make sense to remove the rest of them so that no-one could climb it. But he didn't say that.
The route is now entirely unclimbable. By hero-looping the rings it would be as safe as a clipped a draw - and if you can't do it 'on lead' just rap down and pre-place. It's not the sort of route most people would be onsighting anyway (grade 27 super techy wall).