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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
south america in October/November

vwills
14/07/2014
11:44:14 AM
We are about to head to Canada/USA for the second half of the year. Unfortunately transiting through LAX stars the US 90 day visa ticking so we have to be out of the US by late October (and back to Australia by about November 20). We couldnt be bothered, nor do we have the time to run around doing interviews in Sydney to get a longer USA visa. So we were thinking of coming home via south America. Will be travelling with full trad rack

Please inspire us as whats good in early November for 3 weeks if you have been there....
my thoughts are

Argentina/ Mendoza: Los Arenales
or
Argentina: Bariloche: Frey/ Los Encantados
or
Brazil (dont know much about this)
or
Chile/ Puerto Montt: Cochamo

martym
Online Now
14/07/2014
4:08:06 PM
We were in Bariloche early December - still cold & very rainy. We hiked up to Refuggio Frey twice (climbed 1 day out of 5 the first time; second time we left the gear in a hostel and did the walking circuit) Had to lug everything in, it's about a 6h walk+ with all the gear. But bloody gorgeous.
It's a bad time of year for walks as well, as all the glaciers are melting so the tracks are flooded.. But what we did see was nice.

You could easily do a week in Bariloche & 2 weeks in Cochamo - I haven't been, but all reports are jaw-dropping. Again, big walk in lugging all your gear... but worth it.
I have a friend who is a much more experienced and confident climber than I who said Cochamo was crazy big wall that was too much for him...
Judging by your posts - I think it's right up your alley.

vwills
14/07/2014
11:00:17 PM
I have been to Frey in March, and it was pretty cold. Although I was quite rockclimbing weak at the time having climbed too many mountains, I remember the area as being very good, and note theres a good online resource now at pataclimb, so I am keen to return, but fear it may be a little early.

Cochamo sounds great, but it is on the rainy side of the Andes.
martym
Online Now
14/07/2014
11:45:38 PM

I think it's always a bit cold.
There's several guidebooks in the refugio.
diogobz
15/07/2014
12:48:30 PM
I've been to Frey and Valle encantado in early december and got some fantastic weather, great climbs and amazing landscape. Maybe I was lucky... but I would definitely recommend the trip.
Valle encantado was almost too hot (mostly sport climbs).

vwills
15/07/2014
11:24:10 PM
Hadnt really heard of Valle Encantado, but looks like a nice place and worthchecking out. Seems like there have been some access issues and closed December- March, but no problems in November. Piedra Parada is also within a few hours of Bariloche I believe.
Is it easy to obtain guide books in Bariloche now? In 2005 when I was there we approached the Club Andino and the only rock climbing spot we were directed to, outside of Frey, was Piedra Blanca, above town, which was pretty ordinary.
diogobz
16/07/2014
2:24:59 PM
I think I still have some croquis from Valle encantado, I can email to you if you'd like.
There were some issues with the access, but as long as you didn't overnight in the climbing area it was fine. So you'll need to camp in a spot close to the road and cross the beautiful pristine water river everyday to go climbing (we bought an inflatable mattress).



jono_1
16/07/2014
2:33:14 PM
Los Arenales- only had a few days here but lots of climbing to do. I stayed down fairly low below the border crossing/guards house and did a few easy rambling climbs. All the longer/better climbs are up higher I beleive. I was there in November 04 was freezing with lots of snow. From memory it is over 3,500m. Access was a bit difficult. Got a taxi 3/4 of the way then walked last 5km or so. Need to take everthing in with you.

Frey - I couldn't get a guide book in Barilcohe for Frey in 2008. They have one at the refugio. I found an old in the garage recently from an earlier trip. If I can find it happy to scan and email. Again will be on the cold side probably with some snow. Access is easy- bus to town nearby then walk via two different routes. Refugio is great for food/beer at end of day.

Cochamo- awesome climbing and location but lots of rain. Was there in February for 3 weeks and had lots of rain. Not sure what November is like. Good website is http://www.cochamo.com/. Good refugio run by Daniel/Sylvina with very, very limited beer/bread available.

If I was over there again I would go to Frey as there are lots of moderate routes (18-low 20s), routes are easy to access, can stay in refugio and buy food/beer from refugio and easier access. Cochamo had very limited moderate routes, more difficult to get to routes, and generally more routes generally more serious than Frey routes. Los Arenales- bit more serious that Frey, more difficult access, need to take everything in.


shortman
16/07/2014
2:50:31 PM
On 16/07/2014 diogobz wrote:

So you'll need to camp in a spot close
>to the road and cross the beautiful pristine water river everyday to go
>climbing (we bought an inflatable mattress).
>

Very cool.

vwills
16/07/2014
7:31:37 PM
Heading to Bariloche and climbing around there is definitely looking like the best option. Any emailed topos would be appreciated , though I think a lot of the Frey routes are on line:

http://www.pataclimb.com/climbingareas/freycatedral.html


Cochamo looks amazing but it sounds a bit like heading to the Darrans in terms of weather risk, and we dont have the luxury of waiting . If it was the start of the trip rather than the end I would go there....

dave1962
16/07/2014
8:43:24 PM
hi , went to frey in mid November, ice on the lake still and some snow, but the routes were all climbable, the on line guide looks like a copy of my guidebook I have that Rolando Garibotti wrote, have fun !
jono_1
18/07/2014
3:47:23 PM
http://www.pataclimb.com/climbingareas/freycatedral.html

The guide on this website is the one I have at home but without the colour photos.

vwills
18/07/2014
8:19:38 PM
we enjoyed the coffee table quality of Garibottis Patagonia Vertical when we went to the Torre Valley last year. Good for inspiration, not so much for practicalities, though you work it out eventualy. From experience we will take the large cams and ignore it when "nothing larger than #3" is recommended.
martym
Online Now
18/07/2014
10:33:02 PM
On 18/07/2014 vwills wrote:
>we enjoyed the coffee table quality of Garibottis Patagonia Vertical when
>we went to the Torre Valley last year. Good for inspiration, not so much
>for practicalities, though you work it out eventualy. From experience we
>will take the large cams and ignore it when "nothing larger than #3" is
>recommended.

This kind of Coffee Table?

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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