Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 29-Jun-2014 At 11:17:35 AM BA

Message

THE GUARDIANS

Can either be gained from The Sundial car park or from Delley's Dell picnic site.

From The Sundial car park, follow the walking track until almost at The Sundial. When the track leads down to the right keep following it until it sweeps down fairly close under the cliff (which can be seen up in the right). When almost level withe base of the cliff amble up through the bush to the base of the cliff.

From Delley's Dell picnic site, which is about 4 km along the Silverband Road from the junction with the Dunkeld Road (and about 3 km downhill from the Rosea picnic ground), take The Sundial walking track for about 20 - 25 minutes until below the cliff. From here head straight up and the cliff should be reached in about 10 - 15 minutes.

Time From Car: 40 - 45 minutes from The Sundial car park.
30 - 40 minutes from Delley's Dell.
Climbs are described from right to left.

Aegis 60m 12
To the right of Chicanery is an orange wall with a jam crack on its right hand edge. 1. 25m (crux) Jam to the top of the flake. Move right and up to a ledge. Up the overhanging juggy wall and crack to a small stance and belay. 2. 35m Follow the steep corner to a long overhang at m Move right to an easing in the overhang. Pull up over this and then make a long traverse left to the edge of a deep vegetated line. Climb the arête on the outside of the final overhang. Move into the gully and belay off a Banksia. Peter Jacob, Peter Watling (alt), Kathy Burman. 10.2.74

Chicanery 48m 19
Takes the great stepped flake on the main face. 1. 24m (crux) Climb around the overhang into the wide steep crack. Climb this into the bottomless chimney above. At the big roof, move out right onto a steep juggy wall and climb straight up to a small stance. 2. 24m Straight up the line above which gives excellent exposed bridging to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter (alt), Mike Stone. 24.11.73 FFA John Smart, Norm Booth. Early 1977

Akimbo 45m 11
The groove left of Chicanery. Climb the steep juggy groove left of the blank wall to exit slightly left via a short chimney. Roland Pauligk, Peter Jacob, Anne Pauligk.

Sentinel Corner 50m 18-19,M1
Left of, and slightly lower than, the Chicanery face is a detached 50m pinnacle. Start in the magnificent corner in its left end. 1. 16m Move up and traverse right to a crack leading into the corner proper. Climb the crack and continue up the corner to arrive on a sloping ledge and belay in a slot. 2. 34m Move back right and peg the overhanging corner to a small ledge. Continue free to a small overhang. Exit left and continue up the line to the top. Mike Stone, Geoff Gledhill. 21.2.71
Sentinel Corner Variant 30m 20
A failed attempt to free the original line. This variant does allow the climb to be done free, albeit strenuously. 2. 30m Climb the slot above the belay to a stance on the left. Traverse back right to the original line and follow it. Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns. 14.2.87

GUARDIANS AMPHITHEATRE

This wall is above and left of Chicanery and is most easily approached from above by an abseil.

Mister Ped 35m 18
An enticing natural line with excellent pro. It takes the hand-crack system on the left side of the amphitheatre. Climb the left crack to the horizontal. Step right then up the crack, finish over the block. Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton, Michael Hampton, Gary Schmitt. 21.1.90

The True Believers 18m 16
The left most of twin cracks on the next major buttress right of the amphitheatre. Faces Mt. Rosea and starts from the terrace halfway up the face. Stephen Hamilton, Tim Burke. 21.1.90