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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

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Where's Crock Wall? 28-Jun-2014 At 12:08:54 PM BA

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THE SUNDIAL (PART 1)

From The Sundial Turntable follow the walking track to The Sundial. Just before the summit follow the track down the gully and around to the left. The track follows the South Face until it becomes the Main Face, the track then heads off south down a ridge. To get to the South Face climbs, follow the track until beneath the climb you want then walk straight up to it through a thick band of Banksia. To get to the Main Face climbs follow the track until it shows signs of heading off downhill and walk up through light scrub to the junction of the Main and South faces.

Time from car: 25-30 minutes.
Descent: Back down the track. You can also go down a steep, dirty, loose, poxy gully at the right hand end (Left hand end looking out) of the cliff, but I would not recommend it (and Kieran still doesn't either). This is the gully referred to as the alternative access for The Observatory.
Climbs are described from left to right.

The Gryphon 82m 16,M4
The first climb you come to on the south face, starts at the obvious cracks beneath the dominating roofs 30m up. 1. 20m Climb 7m to a large detached flake. Step left and awkwardly up over bulge (free crux) to a small grassy ledge, move back right, then up to a good ledge. 2. 28m Climb up easily at first then more steeply to a small nut (in place) beneath the bulge. Step right around the bulge and climb the crack on aid until 5m below the roof a sloping ledge on the left arête can be gained. 3. 34m Step back into the line and move up on nuts to the back of the roof. Peg this until a chockstone in the lip gives an awkward, free exit and then move easily up the line to the top. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff (alt), John McMahon. 26.12.72

**Caucus Race 96m 19
Starts 6m right of The Gryphon. 1. 22m Move up the twin cracks to a ledge at 7m, then follow the line that tends right. Up (crux) until able to pull past the tree to a good ledge. 2. 34m Move up the line to the base of the overhang. Surmount the roof and up to a good stance. Up the line to a grassy ledge. 3. 40m Ignoring the line above, make left for 3m then up until a mantelshelf leads to a flake. Step delicately left past a bush to a bollard. Climb steeply up to a good ledge at the base of the chimney, then more easily to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff. (var) 2.12.72 FFA (One piton) Peter and Kevin Lindorff.

HLion Hearted 75m 20
A fairly sustained undertaking. The elegant line 5m right of Caucus Race. 1. 20m Up the line past two small roofs to belay on a ledge on the right. 2. 15m Follow the corner on the right to a blocky ledge on the left. 3. 49m From the left of the ledge, climb the short wall to the base of a groove-crack. Step right into this and follow the line to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Jacob. 25.11.78

Jabberwock 68m 17
"Beware the Jabberwock my son, the jaws that bite, the claws that catch." A steep and sustained route that starts in the corner 10m right of Lion Hearted. 1. 37m Climb the line for 10m, move left and up through a bushy ledge. Continue almost to the base of a smooth corner then left and up a shallow ramp. Steer right into the corner and climb to the superb ledge under the roofs. 2. 31m Climb the short crack into the corner and continue up a bolt runner. Climb delicately up into the original thrutch of a crack and work your way up the line until you can traverse left into a deep crack leading to the top. Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood. (alt) 11.3.72

Mock Turtle 83m 16
Starts 7m right of Jabberwock. Watch out for rope drag on the second pitch. 1. 37m Up the line for 12m, then left around the block. Continue up the line past two bulges (second one is the crux) then step left onto a triangular nose. Delicately up this for a few moves, then back right to the ledge and belay. 2. 46m Up the short crack which is initially vertical but then bends nearly horizontally left. Move left to the bush and up to a large ledge. Go back and slightly left into the chimney corner line that is climbed to a huge chockstone. Delightfully around this then up tending left to belay on the look out. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 3.2.73

Cheshire Cat 80m 16,M1
Starts 30m right of Mock Turtle. 1. 50m Up a few moves to a ledge. Continue up the line via a few grassy bulges to a good ledge on the right. 2. 20m Move back into the line and up a chimney. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the bulging rock. 3. 10m Up the steep crack, 2 nuts for aid, to a grassy ledge. Make an awkward move off a nut placed high in the crack and then move up more easily to belay on the left. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 15.9.73