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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 28-Jun-2014 At 11:54:52 AM BA

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DEVILS PEAK (PART 2)

Hot Time 93m 17
Start at the 30 cm diameter stump, 3m high, leaning out from the base of the rock near the left end of the cliff. The climb has no initials, but the wall has been attacked by a piton hammer to indicate the start which is 20m down right from The Flagellator. 1. 28m Bridge up the tree and step across to the face under the roof. Step up and right. Layback and jam past the next roof to a stance. Go straight up the rounded crack to a good ledge. Move up (crux) to a ledge and belay. 2. 10m Layback up and step left. Move right along the ledge for a few metres to a corner, this is directly below a distinct line and above the first pitch. 3. 42m Climb straight up, initially on sound rock, but later on flaky holds, for 38m to a ledge. Move 4m left and belay behind a boulder. 4. 13m Move 4m left and climb the awkward scrubby corner to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Clive Parker. (var) 28.2.70

Route 666 40m 18
Starts 40m left of Satans Exit at a "tombstone" leaning out from the bottom of the cliff. Up the prominent corner to a large ledge on the left. Rap off. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue. 21.1.89

Self Immolation 95m 21
Starts 20m right of 666, and 20m left of Satan's Exit, in a corner below a little roof 4m above the ground. 1. 20m Up around the roof, then up and right to the corner. Up this to a roof, left past a bolt runner to a stance at the base of the corner, move left to the ledge just around the arete. 2. 30m Up the arete for a few metres to a small roof (beware of loose block). Step around right back into the original line. Grovel up to a tree. The crack line on the right wall is initially quite good but the exit up right to the large ledge is awkward and dirty. 3. 45m Move back left into the main line and its continuation to the top. Kevin Lindorff, David Brereton. 17.12.90

Satans Exit 105m M7,15
A selection of almost everything that can be hammered, cammed, or poked into cracks plus things can be hung on flakes is needed for this exercise in the lost art of terrifying aiding. right of Hot Time is a blank corner, on its left wall is a series of cracks with an in situ bong (hands up all those who know what a "bong" is, no it's not for smoking illegal substances. Give up? You'll have to go and have a look won't you?). 1. 40m Follow cracks, the diagonally across the roof and up 7m to belay. 2. 10m Continue up to a tree and belay. 3. 37m The corner above (peg for aid on the bulge) to the bottom of the chimney. 4. 18m Up the chimney to an overhang. Exit left and up to belay. Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (alt), Fred Langenhorst. 10.3.70

* *Black Narcissus 100 m 20
Looks great. Starts up brushed groove in blunt arete 50m right of Satan's Exit, above right side of huge, fallen blocks and just lrft of yellow, undercut wall. 1. 50m Up groove (BR at 12m) to overlap. Go 2m right and up into next groove. Hand-traverse 4m right to foot of crack. Up this to ledge. 2. 50m Step left, then up dramatic crack which gets harder to ledge. Step right. Chimney-corner. Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt), Andrew Reynolds 11.3.96

Hells Angel 35m 16,M3
Starts below an overhang on a small buttress at the extreme RH end of the cliff. A large forked tree, a 2m roof and double set of initials mark the start. A monty to go free. 1. 15m Climb up to the roof on the RH side and traverse left underneath it for 3m towards a cracked bulge. This is climbed with three aids. Straight up for 10m to a small recess in the face and belay. 2. 20m Traverse 2m right, then peg the crack slanting out to the left and free climb to the top. Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett (alt), Bob Connell. 22.11.70