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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 28-Jun-2014 At 11:54:07 AM BA

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DEVILS PEAK (PART 1)

One way to the cliff is to walk up to it from the Grampian Motel below it on the Dunkeld Road. The walk is long, through light scrub and crosses private property. It would be advisable to check with the motel staff before walking in this way. Another way is as for Old Wave Wall, except move a lot further left (south) to the appropriate spur that runs up to the left hand end of the cliff. This large crag has many good lines but they tend to be either loose or dirty or both.

An alternative approach was described in the ROCK guide:

The approach described is direct, does not appear to cross private property and is free of scrub. It is all through attractive, open woodland. The first half is more or less flat. Park on the Halls Gap-Dunkeld road 500 m S of the Grampians Motel, and 150 m S of 'Telopea', at a pair of gravel drives (the S one forks immediately) on the W side. Walk W up the N one (signposted 'the Millers') to a bend at 75 m. Continue W through cleared land and veer slightly N to creek. Walk W up S bank of this, over one tiny tributary, until a tributary enters from the S just before terrain steepens. Continue just S of W up the spur formed between this branch and the main creek. The spur becomes more defined and steepens as S end of cliff is approached. Cliff faces E. Walking time 45 minutes. GR 350846
Time from car: 40 - 50 minutes. From the road to the Millers.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Good Intentions 20m 20
The road to hell... A crack-climb which widens steadily from fingers to off-width (crux!) Take SLCDs to #4 Camalot. This attractive line needs cleaning, and makes The Flagellator obsolete. At upper left end of cliff are two pinnacles about 70m apart and both high on the cliff. Good Intentions starts in recessed alcove below left pinnacle and is distinctive, grey, right-facing flake-crack. Above overhang, belay on ledge on left. Abseil from tree. Chris Baxter, Greg Aimer 9.8.98

The Flagellator 25m 16
Beats me why they called it that. It takes the obvious layback crack beneath the pinnacle at the left end of the cliff. Climb the crack to a narrow ledge below the overhang. Traverse right to the next line, up 5m, then back left to a large ledge. Walk off the ledge to the left. Geoff Gledhill, Bob Connel.l 28.2.70

*Devils Island 40m 22/23
Looks very good. At left end of main section of cliff are two seams up blunt arete below righ one of two pinnacles, and 70m right of first pinnacle. That is, 70m down right of The Flagellator. 1. 20m Right seam to ledge. Right to foot of attractive, right-facing corner. Up this (sustained). 2. 20m Up from right end of ledge. Step left and pass left end of overlap. Veer right up wall towards prow, then up to top of pinnacle. No belay. Abseil. Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood 22.5.95