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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Halls Gap (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Where's Crock Wall? 27-Jun-2014 At 12:26:14 PM BA
Message
OLD WAVE WALL

From the Halls Gap - Dunkeld Road turn onto the road that leads to the Millers just south of the Rocklyn Motel. Park the car at the bend in the road (about 100m from the main road). Walk towards the cliff at first through an open paddock, then across a small creek on the right just before the tea tree. Continue up the right hand side of the creek through bracken and then along a shallow grassy gully. Where the gully meets more bracken (before the gully bifurcates) move onto the crest of the spur on the left. Directly up this to the cliff. The original access route has become overgrown and more difficult to follow, I've added a few minutes travelling time.
Time from car: 35 - 45 minutes.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Who Is This Woman Called Steph? 70m 19,M1
This is the first corner on the left end of the cliff, Just left of the "old wave line". 1. 30m Up the sloping corner to a small overhang and continue up the crack above this to a large ledge. 2. 35m Move right and then through the break in the large overhangs. Out right around this with one aid (crux). 3. 15m Either continue left up a grotty crack or move right onto the arête. Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher (alt) 24.11.84

Holidays In The Sun 55m 20
The best-looking line at the cliff. Starts 5m left of When The Tide Goes Out, at the bottom of the brilliant corner that is topped with a roof. 1. 25m Climb the corner using the corner and the arête. Step left under the roof and follow it around and up until it is possible to step right onto the top of it. 2. 30m Step left and follow the crack and corners to the top. Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue. November 1987 NB A better second pitch would be to step right into When The Tide Goes Out.

**When The Tide Goes Out 50m 16
The corner beneath the small roof left of Quantum Leap. 1. 40m Up and left around the roof, continue up the outstanding corner above. Move left at the orange scoop and up to the next roof. Climb left around the arête and up the crack to a stance. 2. 10m Up easily to ledge and abseil tree on the right. Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham. 8.12.84

Quantum Leap 65m 19
The twin cracks in the wall below the large orange roof. 1. 40m up to a ledge. Continue up the corner crack to where you can step left and climb the cracks in the wall to the roof. Step left onto the bushy ledge. Up the crack above, move right, up and back left around the steepening, then up to a ledge. 2. 25m Move 3m up the chimney and then 2m right around the arête, above the overhang. Straight up weakness in steep wall to abseil tree. Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher. (alt) 25.11.84

Happy Hooker 65m 20,M1
The next line right of Quantum Leap. 1. 30m Up the line to the friable roof and swing out right onto rounded lichen country. Move up where possible to a belayable stance above. 2. 13m Traverse right 8m to a corner weakness and up this to the large ledge below an orange roof. 3. 12m Straight up the right facing corner, through the final roof and onto the belay ledge. (Abseil tree 10m on the left.) Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher (alt), Derek Visser, Kelvin Longhurst. 8.12.84
Note: The leader used one aid at the roof that was eliminated by the second. Still awaiting a free lead.

Fossil Crack 20m 14
The crack in the small buttress on the right-hand side of the cliff. Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher. 25.11.84

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