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Crag & Route Beta

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Browns Road Sydney - Call for history and info

10:20:18 AM
Hi Everyone.

I'm trying to track down information regarding Browns Road crag in Sydney. I spend a lot of time here and put up some routes recently and have been contemplating the equipping of some of the larger 10-12m tope ropes. Also want to make sure the routes put up are not conflicting with forgotten history.
I also want to try and record any info for the place in terms of FA names, Dates, when its was developed. Have been hunting around for a while but haven't found much at all.

Will Monks mentioned Peter Balint's Sydney bouldering guide to me had some details (thanks Will for pointing me in the right direction). I have had a few names passed on in terms of people putting up problems / routes Jon Reilly, Rob Saunders, Hira Verick, Mike Myers, Justin Kennedy, Tim O'Neill and Libby Illy. Are any of these people members here or does anyone have any contact information for them.

If anyone knows of other publications that might have some details then pass it on to me.
Any help is much appreciated.

Just realised i posted it in gear / lost and found. Can it be moved over to the crag beta section by one of the mods here??

*Chockstone Moderator - Topic moved as requested.*

3:27:45 PM
I didn't do any FAs there, but climbed there on quite a few occasions in the mid-late 90s.

My $0.02 would be to leave the place as a top-rope only crag - it's pretty unlikely you'd be putting up first ascents and it's just not high enough to make a good leading experience. By leaving it unleadable you're also gifting it to current & future hardpersons who have the cojones to solo that kind of terrain. If you're keen to spruce up the place, pulling some of the old carrot anchor bolts and replacing them with modern anchors (i.e. SSGABs) would be a better way to go.
3:53:42 PM
I lived just up the road for a while, bouldered there often and put in a few of the large top rope bolts on the isolated block.


Edit: and I'd agree with pmonks views on how the place should be developed/not...
Dr Nick
4:18:15 PM
PMonks, most of the climbs have at least one modern anchor in addition to the older carrot, done about two years ago. That gives two points at the top of each climb without having to drill too much. I'm sure there are some that were missed in the rebolt, so care still needs to be taken.

8:55:50 AM
On 12/02/2014 Dr Nick wrote:
>PMonks, most of the climbs have at least one modern anchor in addition
>to the older carrot, done about two years ago.

Nice - when I climbed there it was mostly natural anchors (often trees) with the odd rusty carrot here and there. Good to save the trees some wear & tear.

11:44:32 AM
Thanks for the input guys (been away for a few days).

As Dr NIck said most the top outs have new bolts placed by him (thanks i couldn't remember who it was who did it) and that covers most of the courtyard area now.
Think someone come through and did another batch because many of them now have 2 new stainless anchors.

I have fixed up a few more over the past 6 months and have headed down the hill to do some easier below 16 stuff and put up some mixed routes on stuff that didnt appear to have been climbed. Anyway i took the approach that mixed is best if any new stuff was to go up (this is areas away from the courtyard). As a result there is a few carrots down the hill on the lower cliffs (maybe 3 or 4) but the rest of it is pretty much as is.

Been surprised that its had an increase in traffic over the past few months which is seeing the courtyard climbs clean up nice and as a result you probably don't need your brush with you any more.

Get down there and have a climb if you haven't been there. Early mornings its in the shade until 11:30.

Thanks for the response again.

Actually would love to know who was the person who took the time to bolt the too harder roof climbs down near aid walls. Would be good to record them if possible. Any leads would be much appreciated.

4:02:29 PM
Mike Myers would be a good source of info (he used to live nearby), but he seems to have dropped off the planet for the moment. I'm meeting up with a pile of old mutual friends in a few weeks so I'll see if I can hunt up his contact number (I know an old girlfriend still has contact with him). Climbed there a few times with Mike in 1982 ish.

8:17:07 PM
WW&S still has contact regularly mulchy..ask him

9:13:49 PM
On 20/02/2014 Capt_mulch wrote:
>(I know an old girlfriend still has contact with him).

On 20/02/2014 rodw wrote:
>WW&S still has contact regularly mulchy..ask him

Are you gents now suggesting ww&s has a gender identity crisis happening?
~> I figure he will set you straight soon enough!
Heh, heh, heh.

10:17:20 AM
Had a Facebook message from WW&S today that alluded to Myers contact - I don't know about a gender ID crisis with WW&S - I think his rough old mug is only attractive to females!!
12:10:28 PM
Browns Road had most of its problems top roped first then done solo, without crashmats I think that is fair terminology.

I think good top rope anchors are the only anchors that should be placed.

There are plenty of other suburban routes and scope for many many more in the Sydney region.

12:25:33 PM
Thanks for that.

10:36:51 AM
Just touching base hear and wondering if anyone has any knowledge of who may have bolted the two sport lines in the cave near the turning circle on the road?

Also any idea who did the original routes TCFTH. It has two fixed hangers that look like 1/2" bolts with 3/16" plate hangers. I'm replacing these two hangers with new rings and adding anchors to the top of this face. Looks like a nice run out to the second hanger but it certainly adds some spice to it.

There is also a line on the left end of the slab. I rapped in and checked, did the moves on top rope but cant see how its protected. There is a single bash in about 4m off the deck and the next piece is another 4-5m on a diagonal traverse to a horizontal. I think its ground fall potential. The line is actually rather nice mixed route but i would like to find some info on it as i would like to add an additional hanger about 2-3m along the traverse and still maintain its mixed style.

Note i have added a direct mixed line that uses the 1st bolt and goes straight up rather then the original traverse.Good technical slab climbing.

Would be interested if anyone who has commented in this topic has actually ventured to this area of the cliff line as it is a fair way from the courtyard? And if you have climbed the lines? There is two reasonably nice cracks down here also that will be nice to climb again this year.

I recently equipped some mixed lines on a lower cliff a while ago that are easier. They seem to be seeing decent traffic. Nice to see people appreciating easier mixed lines over the usual Sydney sport.

There are 13 messages in this topic.


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