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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Central Mt Rosea (General) [ Rosea Guide | Images ] 

Author
Mount Rosea Left Side - Route Location
kieranl
30/04/2013
8:27:20 PM
Mount Rosea - Left Side Route Locations

This list was prompted by a comment from last weekend that it was hard to locate routes down the left end of Rosea using only the Select guide. To avoid the hassle of carrying a complete printout from ACA or the complete SE Gramps guide, this is a list of routes as encountered along with brief notes on the track, landmarks and identifying initials. Routes that I consider worthy of attention have their name in bold. Initials referred to are also in bold. Copy and paste from here into whatever format is desired. The source was my work on ACA. Hope it's useful.

The left side of Rosea is the area below the Giant's Staircase and moving left from there.

Take the Mount Rosea walking track from the carpark. After about five minutes walking another sign points the way to the top of Mt Rosea. Ignore the sign and take the left fork at this point. The track meanders its way across the hillside for another 10-15 minutes and then climbs to the cliff. From the third hairpin bend on the track make your way diagonally left across the hillside (rough, some fallen timber) until you hit rock.

Margarita 23m 18
Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall.

Go left about 20 metres below an overhang to a large corner with a large tree low down and a tree at the top. Faded initial S.

Shadrach 75m 15
Below left-facing corner with faded initial S.

Shadrach Direct Start 33m 16
Seven metres left of Shadrach under an orange groove.

The pad continues over a loose slope below what can only loosely be described as a cliff. Currently (2013) very rough, overgrown and with fallen timber.

The Decameron 63m 17
Start about 5 metres left of Shadrach DS, 12 metres left of Shadrach.

The cliff does get better. For the next few climbs it's best first to bop along and locate the pillar at the base of Coronary Country and then work backwards.

Memories Of Provence 90m 22
Start at small undercut corner 10m right of Big Boys Don't Cry.

Big Boys Don't Cry90m 21
Short smooth corner capped by a roof just right of Meshach.

The track moves back up to the cliffline (very rough at present (2013)) and there is an initial A.

Meshach 81m 16
Starts at the letter A as for Abednego and takes the right-hand line.

Abednego87m 16
As for Meshach by the Initial A, 15m right of Coronary Country.

Abednego Direct85m 18
Start as for Abednego

Bushwalking With Gordon 90m 18
As for Cream

Cream 90m 20
Small corner 8 metres right of Coronary Country

LANDMARK : A column leans against the cliff next to the glaringly obvious intials CC and below a RURP-scarred seam.

Coronary Country 102m 26 M2
Start by the column leaning against the cliff with the intials CC.

Gillian 84m 18
Corner 10 metres left of Coronary Country

Ma Cherie 138m 16
Start as for Gillian.

If you're going to climbs beyond Twitter and Bisted then here, between Gillian and Nightmare, is a good place to drop down a few metres as the track running next to the cliff stops about 30 metres further on and a scramble would be required.

Nightmare 90m 22
Smooth wall below a steep left-facing corner about 10 metres left of Ma Cherie.

Renate 90m 18
Below the major corner about 20m left of Gillian/Ma Cherie.

Cry Freedom 25m 20
Start 5m left of Renate at a seam that marks the right end of smooth orange wall capped by an overhang.

Here Comes The Bride130m 19
Start as for Cry Freedom

Twitter and Bisted 110m 22
Just before the track next to the cliff stops abruptly below a terrible-looking bolt at 4m.

The track next to the cliff turns into a narrow ledge which stops abruptly. Either go back to near Gillian or drop down into the slot and squeeze through or backtrack a few metres and scramble down.

Royal Blues 120m 23 M0
Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.

LANDMARK : The left side of the smooth wall is marked by the large, right-facing corner of Bourgeois Blues (clear initials BB) and the track continues under a very big overhang.

Bourgeois Blues 129m 24
Below the huge corner on the left side of the smooth wall, just right of the large overhang. Clear initials BB.

Silverband 158m 10
Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from Vee Wee).

Landmark : The next major line left of Bourgeois Blues is the huge line of Vee Wee, some 30 metres around left of Bourgeois Blues. The next three climbs start up the same crack.

Misspent Youth 145m 17
Start as for Vee Wee.

Bad Moon Rising 146m 20
Start as for Vee Wee.

Vee Wee 96m 16
Below huge line festooned with moss and rotten rock. There is a wide crack
in the right wall.

The Magellan Heart 100m 20
Line up buttress just left of Vee Wee

The Stinger 102m 15
The major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of Vee Wee.

Drone Bee 108m 16
As for The Stinger (the major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of
Vee Wee)

Vosaxis 131m 22
Start as for The Stinger.

National Acrobat 120m 22
At weakness in wall 5 metres left of The Stinger

The initials CC stand out about 30m left of The Stinger. This is the start of Curtain Call.

Curtain Call 137m 21
About 30 metres left of The Stinger at the clear initials CC

The Last Act 100m 23
Start below the fantastic corner left of The Stinger, 6 metres left of the
clear initials CC. Faint initials LA.

The Edge Of Reality 103m 23
Flake pillar about 7m left of The Last Act

Bubbles/Dinosaur Gully DF 90m 17
Flake pillar about 7m left of The Last Act, as for The Edge of Reality.

The Sloth Direct 89m 17
The chimney 15m left of The Last Act. Initialled "DG".

Dinosaur Gully 101m 15
Chimney 15m left of The Last Act. Initialled DG.

The Seventh Lamb 55m 16

The One Night Stand 104m 23
About 30m left of Dinosaur Gully (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang, pretty much in the roots of a huge fallen tree.

Rise and Shine 107m 20 M1
12 metres left of One Night Stand at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.

About 25 metres left of Rise and Shine is an easy-angled right-leading flake.

Rameses 127m 15
At the large flake crack.

Saturday Special 132m 12
Start as for Rameses.

Crocks Crawl 120m 11
Start at the large flake-crack as for Rameses.

Miracles in My Pockets 85m 22
Four metres left of Rameses. There is a cairn of rocks leaning against a tree.

Crocks Direct 97m 15
Start at a crack midway between Rameses and Big Chimnney.

Big Chimney 100m 11
Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of Dinosaur Gully, 20 metres left of Rameses. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.

St Vitus Dance 87m 17
Vegetated line 4 metres left of Big Chimney.

Left of Big Chimney the cliff breaks down considerably and the track fades out completely. In the first 220 metres beyond Big Chimney there only 3 climbs and the worth of some of these is debatable, however they have all been located. Traverse the hillside at about the same level as the base of Big Chimney - don't follow the cliffline up into the gullies. After about 65m there is a buttress with some attractive orange rock. About the same distance further on is a buttress with some strong lines on the front. There is a clear initial M.

Matador 104m 16
About 130 metres left of Big Chimney at a crack leading to a roof at 10 metres. Clear initial M.

Toreador 102m 16
45 metres left of Matador where a crack splits a narrow buttress.

Spelio Pinnacle 59m 10
About 45 metres left of Toreador at a chimney/groove. Faint initials on left side of crack.

Finally, after almost 300 metres of broken cliff some impressive rock re-appears. To reach Raw Prawn and Burning Daylight continue left below the climbs and go up to a terrace and back right to start of the scrambles to the climbs.

Raw Prawn 100m 13
About 60 metres left of Spelio Pinnacle and about 10 metres right of a major roof-capped corner (Burning Daylight).

Burning Daylight 139m 20
The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff

Melanoma 119m 12 M4
The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour and a half from the car with packs.
Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of Burning Daylight (400 metres left of Big Chimney).

JamesMc
30/04/2013
9:41:44 PM
Excellent.

Thanks kieranl.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/05/2013
9:07:20 AM
On 30/04/2013 kieranl wrote:
>Routes that I consider worthy of attention have their name in bold.

Good to see at least four routes with an M grade make it into that category!
;-)
kieranl
1/05/2013
10:08:33 AM
Still waiting for a TR from one of our aspiring aid climbers for Melanoma. 3 pitches of aid leading to a huge roof right at the top of the cliff. More than just practice for Buffalo!
gfdonc
1/05/2013
11:07:15 AM
Thanks Kieran. We're already inspired by all that rock, the list helps a bit.

Another thing that wasn't totally obvious, don't try and head left from the bottom of Giant's Staircase to access these routes. It's much easier and quicker to go back down the track to the last right-hand hairpin (coming up), where you can find a rough track heading across the slope.
Will_P
1/05/2013
11:56:01 AM
Too weird man. I was looking through the Select guide on Monday night, planning the next trip, and want to get to Rosea before it gets too cold. Reading the first few route desciptions, I looked at the topo and thought 'it was [is] hard to locate routes down the left end of Rosea using only the Select guide'.

[That possibly sounds like sarcasm but it isn't. Thanks for posting]
kml
6/05/2013
3:59:38 PM
Hi Kieran,
some notes on Coronary Country for the record.

Went to check it out yesterday (hoping to rap down the first pitch to see what sort of protection was on offer and then lead it). So, we climbed up Cream for about 25m(delightful btw) then did a traverse in to a stance immediately (2 or 3m?) below the major roof on CC.

No bolts there (one very rusty carrot a metre or so beneath the stance but certainly nothing worth rapping off). Good natural gear for anchors here (but who would want to leave cams behind for a rap anchor?). Assumed the belay was just over the roof (which would have been about the distance indicated for the first pitch) but an awkward (24) roll onto the ledge above the roof showed a manky rusty pin at foot level to be the only fixed gear.

Went up higher to belay (trad gear). Above was a short, friable and dirty corner. The short corner leads to a roof which leads right a couple of metres to a rusty carrot (no doubt the section of CC that was still be be freed). Rather than head up the unappealing short corner (possibly some shitty wires behind friable flakes) we stepped down right from the belay, moved 2m right to the arete and up this (very nice, similar to the style of climbing on Cream) to rejoin the original line of CC. So, all in all, a 6m variation that gives a much more enjoyable and completly free way up CC.

However, moral of the story, if you want to do the first pitch and then rap off, don't be expecting some good rap bolts - you will need to either a) place your own belay bolts, b) leave some gear or c) finish the route to the top.
kieranl
6/05/2013
8:36:21 PM
Thanks Kevin, don't suppose you have any photos?
What we really need for Rosea are some really high-quality photo-topos. Joe's photos that are used in the ACA are good but not sharp enough for fine detail. And then there's the first 20 metres or so obscured by the trees. Need a project to get photos of people on the first pitches of all the good climbs.
gfdonc
6/05/2013
9:50:31 PM
Emailed you.
pecheur
6/05/2013
9:53:07 PM
On 6/05/2013 kieranl wrote:
>Thanks Kevin, don't suppose you have any photos?
>What we really need for Rosea are some really high-quality photo-topos.
>Joe's photos that are used in the ACA are good but not sharp enough for
>fine detail. And then there's the first 20 metres or so obscured by the
>trees. Need a project to get photos of people on the first pitches of all
>the good climbs.

Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC trip and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)
kieranl
6/05/2013
10:02:19 PM
On 6/05/2013 pecheur wrote:
>Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC trip
>and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)
That could be dangerous.
kml
6/05/2013
10:18:07 PM
Sorry, no photos. Next time I'll take a camera.
pecheur
7/05/2013
4:02:09 PM
On 6/05/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 6/05/2013 pecheur wrote:
>>Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC trip
>>and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)
>That could be dangerous.

Come on Kieran you either want to do this or you don't...

I'll even consider going if I don't have to do any of that aid malarkey :p
kieranl
7/05/2013
8:40:55 PM
On 7/05/2013 pecheur wrote:
>On 6/05/2013 kieranl wrote:
>>On 6/05/2013 pecheur wrote:
>>>Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC
>trip
>>>and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)
>>That could be dangerous.
>
>Come on Kieran you either want to do this or you don't...
>
>I'll even consider going if I don't have to do any of that aid malarkey
>:p
I disagree that it's hard to find things at Rosea, you just walk along the base and identify the climbs as you walk past. There's no bashing up and down gullies.
But to do that you need a proper guide.
I say it could be dangerous because last time I pointed Noddy at something he almost died ; but what did he expect climbing with only half a rack?
VCC Trip? Probably a bit late to organise one before winter and a lot of lines are wet in early spring.
If people are interested, what about the Saturday of the Queen's Birthday weekend - if the weather is fine? We could take a couple of bow-saws and clear a bit of the fallen timber at the same time.
kieranl
9/10/2013
10:35:36 AM
Judging by a report from Phil Armstrong about his experience on Rosea on Monday, the routes on the left side of Rosea are currently very wet.
Don't know about the ones right of Tourist Buttress.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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