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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Tasmania , federation peak , looking for rack beta 14-Dec-2012 At 12:48:33 PM Cam McKenzie

Message

On 14/12/2012 simey wrote:
>Those of you who have done this route... would you rate it as one of the
>classic climbs of Australia? The line of Blade Ridge then up the North
>West Face certainly looks amazing.

It's one of the most memorable routes I've done. In part probably due to the commitment of getting out there with all that gear, and the feeling of absolute isolation. It is certainly an amazing line (though we didn't get to do Blade Ridge). The climbing was good, on good rock for the most part. For the climbing alone it's probably not going to be considered one of the 'classic climbs of Australia', but as a package, it's pretty amazing.

As an experience, for me, I'd say that it surpassed climbing big rock routes in the Dolomites, which is saying something...

>Also, which is better - the original line up the North West Face, or the
>Direct?
>The Direct is definitely the line, but the climbing doesn't sound very
>appealing. What is the original route like?
>

I haven't done the original, but I'd think that the direct is probably better. If it had been dry when we'd done it then the crux pitch would have been much more enjoyable. The pitches afterwards were very good before it becomes scrambly at the end. They would have been even better if it wasn't pissing rain.

The original version would still be good, but given that it's got a squeeze chimney....