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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Tasmania , federation peak , looking for rack beta 12-Dec-2012 At 2:48:57 PM Cam McKenzie

Message

Great decision!

I did this about 4 or 5 years ago. Was quite an adventure. We originally planned to try and link blade ridge into the NW face, but woke up at 4am to rain, so ended up just doing the NW face, which was fairly character building. Your rack sounds reasonable, though I'd suggest that you chuck in a few more draws, as the pitches are longing, maybe a second set of wires too.

The description of the crux roof is somewhat misleading. 'Jam out the roof to jugs'. I ugged up a horrible moss filled offwidth and was greated with wet slopy things at the top. Then I fell off, then it started pissing rain, then I started aid climbing.

Scope the descent before you do the route. You don't need to do the whole bush walkers traverse to get back to camp. You can scramble down a mega scree slope and then do a 40ish metre abseil from slings to get to the plateau above the campsite. The abseil goes over the 'The Climbing Gully' route (first climb in thesarvo guide). Best way to find the descent is to climb 'The Climbing Gully' the arvo before you climb go up and tag the summit and then come back down the same way.

The walking is without a doubt the hardest that I have done anywhere. In particular Moss Ridge. Take an EPIRB, I have never felt more alone than leading that crux roof pitch.

Also, if the weather looks crap, forget about it. We walked in with a one day weather window which incredibly held and we managed to climb. After we got back to the tent, it snowed all night. We were incredibly lucky.

Awesome.
Have fun