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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Where Angels Fear to Tread - bloody epic 21-Nov-2012 At 2:36:40 PM Cam McKenzie
Message
On 21/11/2012 Will_P wrote:
>Some tales of triumph would be nice, please. Planning to do this in the
>1st week of Jan, so don't psych me (or my partner, who fortunately rarely
>reads this forum) out.

Get on it Mr Powers!

It's character building if nothing else. Just take as many cams as you own in the 2 - 4 camelot range and you'll be fine. Some medium wires for the short thinnish section up to the ledge after 4 or 5 pitches.

It's mostly pretty easy climbing. The first pitch is probably the crux, and there's the thin bit mentioned above (which is only a couple of metres long). And there's the horrible short offwidthy bit just above that (get your mate to lead that pitch). Other than those 3 bits it's mostly 14-15ish hand jamming in the back of a trench.

It's got potential to be bloody hot in January as it's in sun for most of the day, so either get up super early and move fast, or start late and move fast, or pack lots of water!

Beautiful location. Finish up Caligula for a full value trench day.

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