Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links

All NSW (General) (General) (General)

Author

Beginner's crag/s in the Bluies?

CraigB

24-Oct-2012
1:59:30 PM

Hi guys, apologies if this question has been asked (which I'm sure it has), but I couldn't find any decent answers.

My girlfriend is currently recovering from a climbing accident she had the first time she lead outdoors (clipped a tree at Mt. York, details in the Accidents and injuries board). She's pretty shaken but says she's keen to get back outdoors when she's recovered. I'm trying to gently encourage her to do that too.

What are people's opinions as to the better beginner crags out at the Bluies? I'm after simple climbs, no run outs, grades from 13-17 or so, on ringbolts rather than carrots if possible, and nothing too exposed. basically, where would you take a total beginner who also has a fair bit of apprehension about climbing for their first trip outdoors? That's the sort of place I'm after.

The plan is to just get her out on a top rope to start with to build some confidence with route finding. I'd be happy to lead the climbs, then she could toprope through draws on the anchors (I'm assuming there'd be no issue with this?). Then once she had dialled a few climbs on TR, see if she would like to lead them.

I think that if I'm able to tell her "These areas have been recommended by the peeps on Chocky", that might give her a little more comfort too.

I flicked through the guidebook a lot, but with so much info in there, I had trouble making head or tail out of it, so I thought I'd ask those in the know. Thanks guys.

davidn

24-Oct-2012
2:17:45 PM

This is not a recommendation for an particular area, but might be interesting for you to check out:

http://www.thecrag.com/routes/at/11741347/with-grade/AU:10:17/

Same list filtered just for sport climbing:

http://www.thecrag.com/routes/at/11741347/with-grade/AU:10:17/with-gear-style/sport/

Sonic

24-Oct-2012
2:46:19 PM

Dam Cliffs, say no more

On 24/10/2012 davidn wrote:
>This is not a recommendation for an particular area, but might be interesting
>for you to check out:
>
>http://www.thecrag.com/routes/at/11741347/with-grade/AU:10:17/
>
>Same list filtered just for sport climbing:
>
>http://www.thecrag.com/routes/at/11741347/with-grade/AU:10:17/with-gear-style/sport/

rodw

24-Oct-2012
2:47:03 PM

Easy ring bolted routes 13-17...something I know a little about:)...says your in Sydney..why not try local...shorter walls so less scary in terms of exposure...

Fossil Wall at Mt Karingai has some 16-18 and are easily top ropeable..
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=861

The Stables - otherland - more around the 18 mark but easily top ropable..
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=283

Bit further a field but if you in Sydney travel time to Wingello is the same as most upper Mt areas...

Wingello - has a few slabs in that range...not top ropable in general but easy slabs are great to get confidence back....

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=314
Easier areas are Noli Ne Tangere wall, The Slabs and La Sancta

Up in the mountains you have..

The Dams - a few routes now sporting shiny rings (though not all)
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=360

Further a field you have Sahara pt...
Main wall mostly carrots but does have fully ring bolted 13 Anzac Spirit, the other walls all ring bolted and all can be top roped...
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=36

I haven't been there yet but the Soft parade at mt York is very much ring bolts routes 13-17 so if going back there doesn't make her break out into a cold sweat maybe check that out...(maybe other can confirm if its suitable?)
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=2116

martym

24-Oct-2012
11:25:29 PM

That's great news mate! She's hooked.

Try:
Medlow Bath Sunbath area.

Megalong Valley - James Bond Wall, right hand side there's a few easy carrot climbs.

Bangor west - do a few laps on the bolted-boulder.

Berowra - though some of the "easy" climbs are a bit sandbagged.

CraigB

25-Oct-2012
4:42:19 PM

Thanks everyone, Dam Cliffs first up looks like a good plan. Then some awesome suggestions after that.

I only mentioned Bluies as she loves getting out of the City, so travel to the mountains is another little incentive to get back out there. Sneaky right?

widewetandslippery

25-Oct-2012
5:00:52 PM

there are a few things at zig zag on carrots

benjenga

26-Oct-2012
6:46:51 AM

I am starting to think that chockstone needs a frequently ask question section.

There are 8 messages in this topic.