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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
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Author
Your Pick! Best Multi Pitch Romp!
Hugh
11-Sep-2012
8:40:01 AM
Hello all,

My partner and I will be making our way up to Nowra this summer, however we plan to stop at a few places along the way.

Having done very little climbing in that part of the country I would like to know what your pick would be for multi-pitch climbing around Canberra? Specifically looking for a couple of 12-15 multi's which we could tick off in a day or two. Not too fussed with style although it would be cool if there are some nice cracks in the mix ;-)


Cheers

Hugh

pmonks
11-Sep-2012
8:54:56 AM
Booroomba Rocks is probably your best bet. I haven't done much there, but Denethor / Ivory Coast (3 pitch grade 14) was quite memorable. Hint: pinch, don't pull.

climbau
11-Sep-2012
9:14:31 AM
Booroomba.
Hermes is quite good.
Hugh
11-Sep-2012
9:59:12 AM
So Booroomba definitely gets the love?

nmonteith
11-Sep-2012
10:06:24 AM
Is Buffalo considered "on the way"?
kieranl
11-Sep-2012
10:31:22 AM
It's the bit about Nowra in summer that concerns me.

rodw
11-Sep-2012
10:38:33 AM
Just bivvy at every second bolt at nowra and you get 2 pitch multis then.
Aidan
11-Sep-2012
10:45:05 AM
Go to Booroomba. Its awesome.

Denethor is terrifying (for me). Hermes is brilliant and well protected. Roys Crack and Integral Crack are the bomb but not very multi pitchy. Sunstroke is the greatest easy thing around. Possum is good.

Go check it out!
Wendy
11-Sep-2012
10:53:31 AM
Doesn't take much summer for Booroomba to be baking either. And I reckon Buffalo is at least as on the way as Booroomba.
Hugh
11-Sep-2012
11:09:24 AM
On 11/09/2012 kieranl wrote:
>It's the bit about Nowra in summer that concerns me.

Yes, have heard that. But it's also a family visit...

What about blue lake? We will be stopping at Kosi also for some walking...

nmonteith
11-Sep-2012
11:19:31 AM
Go to Point Perp. Multipitch exposure with single pitch access. 30mins from Nowra.
widewetandslippery
11-Sep-2012
11:22:45 AM
booroomba can be ok if you chase the shade.whilst not multi pitch orroral ridge is worth a look, has plenty of shade and shares the same campsite. Point perps one pitch routes feel like multi pitch routes!
One Day Hero
11-Sep-2012
12:18:10 PM
Hmmm, quality shady grade 12 multipitch routes with good gear?...........I think arapiles might have given you unrealistic expectations.

If you're heading to Booroomba in summer, go super early, most of the crag is in the sun by 1pm. I agree with Neil, Point Perp is probably your best bet for beginner grades in the shade.
Hugh
11-Sep-2012
12:26:29 PM
On 11/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Hmmm, quality shady grade 12 multipitch routes with good gear?...........I
>think arapiles might have given you unrealistic expectations.
>

I didn't say anything about gear ODH ;-)


>If you're heading to Booroomba in summer, go super early, most of the
>crag is in the sun by 1pm. I agree with Neil, Point Perp is probably your
>best bet for beginner grades in the shade.

Yeah, point perp looks pretty wild. Cheers
One Day Hero
11-Sep-2012
12:34:27 PM
If you do get decent weather for Booroomba, Possum and Hermes would be my recommendations.
uwhp510
11-Sep-2012
1:12:53 PM
If you're at Booroomba, Fearon is good (next to Hermes and goes right up to the top of the buttress). Or else do Hermes with the Thor finish (belay right after the roof, then traverse back left to a steep but easy layback crack, then on up easily). You should even get a bit of shade in the morning on these.

cruze
11-Sep-2012
2:03:15 PM
Running Crack into Marmalade (shady grade 12 to 11)
Denethor-Ivory Coast (sunny)
Counterbalance (sunny)
Possum (starts shady will get sunny)
Little Hermes linked into Liz after the big ledge (shady)
Vent Crack into Denethor into After the Reiving (I almost died of dehydration on this one in the middle of summer, stupid - sunny)

Hermes is fantastic but isn't 15 (along with quite a few other suggestions by people) and if you aren't confident and/or have biggish gear the P2 layback will "excite" you.
technogeekery
11-Sep-2012
2:22:28 PM
Cruze - nice list there! I had a great 1st day at Booroomba a while back doing Little Hermes and Sunstroke - and your list looks like my hit-list for when I return next week. Cheers.
Hugh
11-Sep-2012
2:25:51 PM
On 11/09/2012 cruze wrote:
>Running Crack into Marmalade (shady grade 12 to 11)
>Denethor-Ivory Coast (sunny)
>Counterbalance (sunny)
>Possum (starts shady will get sunny)
>Little Hermes linked into Liz after the big ledge (shady)
>Vent Crack into Denethor into After the Reiving (I almost died of dehydration
>on this one in the middle of summer, stupid - sunny)
>
>Hermes is fantastic but isn't 15 (along with quite a few other suggestions
>by people) and if you aren't confident and/or have biggish gear the P2
>layback will "excite" you.

haha cheers! Looks great, not super fussed with grades, was just more of a guide for some fun casual (when it's hot) multi's :-)
One Day Hero
11-Sep-2012
2:34:00 PM
If you try to climb on the northern slabs at booroomba in the sun in summer, it will be the opposite of fun!

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There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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