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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Prologue - Mt Piddington.

11:35:21 AM
Im interested if anyone has Climbed Prologue 11 at Mt Piddington?

My Partner and I attempted to climb it on Saturday getttng lost somewhere near the end of pitch 2 and ending up on a scamble up a gully that didn't seem like any real climbing at all.

As we come out of the small cave making a move left we found ourself at a large gum tree with the "larger cave" just above in what was more of a gully.

My question is... Were we ment to head up to the cave and traverse righ back out on the face? If so is it worth it or are the first 2 pitches the good ones?

Wouldn't mind atempting this route again if the last 2 pitches are worth it? Found the first 2 harder then grade 11 but still enjoyable (trip report sometime tomorrow on our weekend outing).

1:37:34 PM
I've only done the first pitch, and also thought it was a bit of a sandbag at 11! Did you notice the stuck machine nut down low?
2:47:24 PM
I did it about 5 years back. We ended up scrambling up the gully which was just that and I didn't think worth the effort which was a shame after the start. Not sure if we missed the line. Be interested to know to.

E. Wells
3:22:15 PM
I did it alone once and you can definately avoid the gully and climb on rock, it is just unprotected.....I suppose.
3:27:12 PM
did it years ago.would've been around my 10th trad climb ever. yes, sandbagged start, only vaguely remember a rambly, sandy, wandering pile of choss after the first pitch, edned up on the left somehwere behind a tree and a sandy gully or... *shrug*.
also remember feeling like we were 143m off the ground and that it was the greatest climb ever. did it several years later to still find it stiff for a grade 11, felt like i was only 6m off the ground and looked up and didn't bother trying to figure out where the climb went due to the rubbish factor so just rapped back down.

3:43:21 PM
Seems as everyone has the same impression.
I thought the 2nd pitch was not bad. but should have rapped off the top of that one by the sounds of it rather then wasting an hour and a bit on the rest of the crap up the top.

Thanks for the info. I think i got some pics ill put in a TR later in the week.

There are 6 messages in this topic.


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