butters wrote re Chockstone user profile;
>great site on mount buffalo! ive caught the aid bug so its definateley my favorite place to climb now
I take it that it was yourself and Nathan(?) who did HC in a day fairly recently?
Your not the fellow who works in Mtn D @ Canberrra are you? , ... as I was talking with a climber there recently about HC and found out this news then.
If it is/was you in the one day party, then congratulations on the ascent !
If it wasn't and you were in the 'other' party, then congratulations on the 'regular' ascent at about the same time!
Stats for anything on the Nth Wall are very hard to come by. Its mostly word of mouth ...
Maybe the VCC could become a repository for such info? If this is the case then it relies upon feedback / contributions.
You might like to contact them about the upgrading of the belay at the end of the main roof pitch also ... considering the new guide could use that information, and its at proof-read stage now.
I do work at MD canberra. Do you live down near Bright? if so Rune (manager of Paddy,s Canberra, describes you as the only guy who buys aid hardware :-)
Nathan and I pulled of HC in 9 hours flat. we short fixed and lead in blocks. Nathan climbed to the start of the beak seam below the roof and I gunned it to the top. lots of fun! The other party that climbed HC two days before was Scott Young and myself (Scott works at MD,s aswell :-) we toodled up the route in a relaxed two days wich was realy handy for the one day acsent as the route was still fresh in my mind.
During our "regular" acsent we upgraded the first HC belay from a ridiculous two carrot belay spread nearly a metre diagonaly apart to a bomber 3 bolt belay (one petzl S.S. couer goujon added) we also upgraded the second belay with another bomber petzl bolt added to a half drilled existing hole at the anchor. all anchors on HC are now bomber and suitable for short fixing. I will pass this info onto the VCC
Double congrats then butters, for the double ascent!!
On 6/10/2003 Rupert wrote:
>The VCC has commenced development of an updated guide to Mt Buffalo in
>We would like to hear from anybody interested in assisting with research
>for the guide but above all we want to hear what you like and dislike about
>the existing guide. This includes any info you can give us about: errors,
>corrections, access, improvements, must do climbs, must avoid climbs, new
>routes... you name it!
>Any input is valuable – if you know an access description is wrong let
>us know, if the route lengths are wrong on the third pitch of some out-of-the-way
>offwidth horror – we want to know.
>The VCC is planning numerous trips over the next year to research this
>guide, but we need your help too. You as climbers can help provide the
>material to make the next edition even better.
>Please feel free to discuss it here
(on another thread)
>or if you prefer, send your input to
The new guide is almost finished so I would use the email addy, as late amendments will have to wait a long time till the next guide comes out.
Perhaps when it does, it could include some stats on speed ascents also?
>describes you as the only guy who buys aid hardware :-)
LOL; yeah, I guess he would say that after quite a few years seeing me pestering him for very specific gear, ... culminating in a 'flyless' portaledge purchase and subsequent ensueing epic in tracking down a fly ...
Its good now that I have put a face to the CS user ID butters ...
Hope to meet you on a wall at Buff sometime.