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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge South Side Waterfall Area [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Siesta at Buffalo a little cleaner
Wendy
24/02/2012
1:32:39 PM
I did some vigorous cleaning of which Damo would have been proud on this the other day. What has emerged is a really quite nice 17 just near Wicked Solitaire, the last pitch of which has to be one of the most climbed routes at Buff. It's a bit trickier than WS, and still showered in a little dirt from my excavations, but that should all wash off in the 40mm of rain forecast for Monday. Jump on it so it stays this way.

harold
24/02/2012
4:48:46 PM
Any details, is this a new route. Its not in my guide. Sound good though.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24/02/2012
7:08:14 PM
On 24/02/2012 harold wrote:
>Any details, is this a new route. Its not in my guide. Sound good though.

... It sounds like you need to update your guide ☺, as it is in the latest one (5th edition 2006) as;
Siesta 20m 17
Not bad. Abseil to a ledge half way up and 10m left (looking out), of Highway 61. Layoff crack to the top.
Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham 7.1.1990

... It is actually listed as being in the Waterfall Upper Area and is closer to Lift Girls Lament than Wicked Solitaire!
Wendy
27/02/2012
11:30:08 AM
On 24/02/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 24/02/2012 harold wrote:
>>Any details, is this a new route. Its not in my guide. Sound good though.
>
>... It sounds like you need to update your guide ☺, as it is in
>the latest one (5th edition 2006) as;
>Siesta 20m 17
>Not bad. Abseil to a ledge half way up and 10m left (looking out), of
>Highway 61. Layoff crack to the top.
>Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham 7.1.1990
>
>... It is actually listed as being in the Waterfall Upper Area and is
>closer to Lift Girls Lament than Wicked Solitaire!

Yeah, OK, maybe ... but considering it's still a whole 50m from WS it still seems a sensible thing to do whilst looking for that grade range in the area.
>

harold
27/02/2012
11:36:24 AM
Oops, was looking on the wrong page. Thanks.
We had a great day there on the Saturday, perfect weather. The highlight was Silk and Satin. Absolutely brilliant as the guide says. We had a mini epic trying to decide where to rap in. There were a few cairns but from the top we couldn't see any sign of the climb, just looked like choss below. Eventually I just started rapping below the biggest cairn and there it was.
Also used the new abseil bolts at the hanglider ramp. Nicely placed to avoid the bushes.
Sunday was pouring rain, so being a climbing addict I convinced Dave to stop by the Youies on the way home for a top rope on Pins and Needles.
Pretty fun weekend even with yesterdays yuck weather.
Wendy
27/02/2012
11:42:24 AM
On 27/02/2012 harold wrote:
>Oops, was looking on the wrong page. Thanks.
>We had a great day there on the Saturday, perfect weather. The highlight
>was Silk and Satin. Absolutely brilliant as the guide says. We had a mini
>epic trying to decide where to rap in. There were a few cairns but from
>the top we couldn't see any sign of the climb, just looked like choss below.
> Eventually I just started rapping below the biggest cairn and there it
>was.

I thought Silk and Satin was great too. Did Joe not right up some better access descriptions on the ACA database or VCC updates? I'll try to get around to it if not. It's actually quite easy to find with decent instructions.

>Also used the new abseil bolts at the hanglider ramp. Nicely placed to
>avoid the bushes.
>Sunday was pouring rain, so being a climbing addict I convinced Dave to
>stop by the Youies on the way home for a top rope on Pins and Needles.
>Pretty fun weekend even with yesterdays yuck weather.

We had 8 days - absolutely perfect for 7 of them. Yesterday's downpour did send us home yesterday or I'd still be there.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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