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Crag & Route Beta

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R arete Old Baldy Upper

Benm

6-Dec-2011
10:03:53 AM

UPRISING (20) 110m *** (old rating system) ***** (new rating system) ****** (newest rating system)

Climbs one of the most prominent natural lines in the valley - the oft eyed right arête of Old Baldy. Weaves its way up on both sides of arête. The climbing is exposed and mostly on good rock – given that it is Old Baldy. Well protected with many glued carrots (take 20 bolt plates), a couple of fixed threads, cams (take #.75- #4), spikes, bollards, and a couple of large wires. Take a heap of draws and 6-10 single slings. Use double ropes. Belays are equipped for abseil descent.

If approaching from the top, the first abseil/belay anchor is just below the cliff-top level, on the L of the arête (looking out). As a 60m rope won’t make it from the top to the P2/3 anchors (allowing you to cut out the short rap to P3/4 belay), you will need to rap to each of the belay/rap points in order. On the last rap, make sure you swing around to the R side of the arête to reach the belay at start of P2.

Start: 20m R of Scimitar, beneath undercut arête.

1. 15m Climb onto block leaning against cliff 3m L of arête. Use fixed rope to gain ledge under roof, walk R to pillar that forms R end of ledge. Clip U bolt and do a few moves of jiggery pokery using another U and in-place sling, to get past fresh air and heinous choss to DUB belay at foot of slab.

2. (19) 25m L up steep, juggy breaks to arête. Up L side then R to large break and move back L to belay station.

3. (20) 50m Up on L side for 3 m, until steepening forces you R. Up steeply, first on R side of arête for 20m, then a bit on L, then back R until large horizontal break. Tricky move off break leads past 4 bolts on R side, to blocky ledge. Belay station on L of arête.

4. (19) 20m Up 2m above belay, step R at block and up R to final steepening on L. DUB belay on R.

Brad Carmady/Ben Maddison November 2011

nmonteith

6-Dec-2011
9:54:26 AM

Sounds great. Got a photo topo?

Benm

6-Dec-2011
10:02:06 AM

working on it! Will post asap

bully b

6-Dec-2011
10:13:34 AM

Got back on that wall yet?

benm

6-Dec-2011
10:16:35 AM

hah mate, not yet; weather has been tough and cant find anyone else able to belay that hard! Hopefully go out and get it done next week.

wallwombat

6-Dec-2011
10:44:07 AM

Sounds unreal.

benjenga

6-Dec-2011
1:52:35 PM

Sounds good, psyched to try it.

wm

6-Dec-2011
3:08:39 PM

bradc reckons the new 6 star Wolgan rating system is great because it can easily be converted to Blueys stars: simply deduct 6 stars.

bradc

6-Dec-2011
3:39:25 PM

only deduct 6 stars for sport climbers!

bradc

6-Dec-2011
4:31:51 PM

there's a photo on evan's site, the route is the obvious arete to the right of the main face:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wVCwumbhccIW0YuhgWJLIw?feat=embedwebsite

cogsy

6-Dec-2011
4:35:47 PM

Nice one Ben.... how is the Zone crag going? I was a little dissapointed the big arete went at 20... I was hoping it might be a big Blueys version of "Still life with Chalkbag"! That wall must have too many holds!

There are 11 messages in this topic.