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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Palm Beach Bouldering - warning
Nick Clow
3/05/2011
7:28:42 PM
Re.The Crack (V3 Sydney classic)

I noticed today that a piece of the key hold high up on the R has crumbled. More seriously the whole hold is now flexing and is very likely to come off completely.

I will try and reinforce it, but will not be able to get out there until the weekend.

In the meantime, please please stay off the climb as the loss of this hold will ruin a terrific problem.

Does anyone have any advice as to the best glue/filler to use?



bert
3/05/2011
8:24:19 PM
My advice on glue/filler is not to use it. Better to rip/pry the hold off then glue it. If you want to pull on holds held together by artificial resins then go to a climbing gym.

IMO the best approach would be to leave it alone and let it run its natural course. Again, if you want to climbing on holds that have little or no chance of breaking then you could always go to a climbing gym.

What do the locals think?
Nick Clow
3/05/2011
9:00:44 PM
Thanks for the advice about climbing gyms.

It may be helpful to clarify that the hold is the top of what is almost a flake. There is a weakness along the side of this which is opening minutely as it is flexing. (The rock has presumably been weakened by all the recent rain and someone pulling on it in its weakened state.) It is clear to me that a small and carefully applied amount of glue will help to hold the seam together.

nmonteith
3/05/2011
9:59:42 PM
Is the flake big enough that a hidden threaded rod glued in would be useful? A lot of the popular sport routes in the Bluies have these hidden under the surface.

Epoxys are the strongest glues - but pricey and usually quite runny (can turn into a mess easily). Most people use the new breed of polyestor based glues - products such as Ramset 101 or Powers Kf2. Dry quickly (less than 30 minutes) and usually less messy.

rodw
3/05/2011
10:13:54 PM
As long as no dirt and crap in between and its dry the polyestor glue will do the job.
mikllaw
4/05/2011
3:20:09 PM
with a knife try to open the crack to get extra glue in (preferably without removing flake)

Build up a fillet of glue along the back

Rag off as much excess glue as possible, and cover with sand, work the sand into the glue

white trash
4/05/2011
7:36:39 PM
Palm Beach is yuppie central, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Nick Clow
4/05/2011
8:19:39 PM
Thanks Neil, Rod, Mike

Bump - please stay off this problem until the weekend.

white trash
4/05/2011
8:45:00 PM
I will be there tomorrow, but it is OK because I am a dirtbag climber and not a yuppie, and I'll just use the intermediate holds.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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