Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links

VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ]

Author

Finger Friendly Routes

HM33

15-Nov-2005
2:59:12 PM

hi,

as bit of a diversion i was wondering if anyone can anyone recomend any classic routes in the gramps or araps that feature lots of open handed holds and no left hand crimps? im heading down next week but am carrying a slight finger injury on my left hand.

im thinking of tiapan as one possibility?

steve

joemor

15-Nov-2005
3:04:57 PM

gallery...

nmonteith

15-Nov-2005
3:05:47 PM

There just isn't that many ultra crimpy routes in the Grampians. All the main super crags would be fine...
Bundaleer, Rosea, Taipan, VD Land, Millenium, Muline blah blah...

nmonteith

15-Nov-2005
3:09:03 PM

Crags to avoid... Wall Of Fools, Green Walls, Tribute Wall, Watchtower, Curiosity...

HM33

15-Nov-2005
3:18:17 PM

i suppose Archimedes principle is out?

nmonteith

15-Nov-2005
3:20:11 PM

It is fine steve. Open handed in-cuts most of the way up. You just need really good endurance and the
ability to place wires....

Chalk Free

15-Nov-2005
7:35:58 PM

There's plenty of good jam cracks to be found. Bundaleer and Rosea come to mind

Nottobetaken

15-Nov-2005
9:06:10 PM

I'm guessing the grade range you're after - but...
Angular Perspective First Half - all open pockets to jugs
Manic Depressive - all good holds
Snake Flake - certainly no crimps
Non Stop (Arapiles) - pockets
Pain Street - jugs
Aftermath & Trinity Wall (Arapiles) - jugs
The Low Down - RH undercling - the rest jugs
Procul Harem - no crimps!
Cellular Destruction - jugs
High Dive - jugs
Anus Horribilus - only RH crimp
Allez - mainly sidepulls/underclings
Armed Forces - jugs!

plenty more where they came from!

gremlin

15-Nov-2005
9:45:40 PM

I strongly suggest you just rest it
I got a slight finger injury early this year and gave it two weeks rest until it felt reasonable
I did some easy grade 11 and it flared back up again even worse and took 2 months to heal
I lost a lot of strength and could barely type (i work as a programmer so i also lost work)
It has taken me 6 months and a LOT of training to get back to where i was...

rodw

15-Nov-2005
10:25:15 PM

Yeah crimpshaw just hang out with the hermit at the cave and contemplate life...

HM33

15-Nov-2005
10:28:05 PM

thanks for the advice

ill go easy on it.

nmonteith

16-Nov-2005
8:36:12 AM

All these routes are at Arapiles - not the Grampians....

>Non Stop (Arapiles) - pockets
>Pain Street - jugs
>Aftermath & Trinity Wall (Arapiles) - jugs
>The Low Down - RH undercling - the rest jugs
>Procul Harem - no crimps!
>Cellular Destruction - jugs
>High Dive - jugs
>Anus Horribilus - only RH crimp
>Allez - mainly sidepulls/underclings
>Armed Forces - jugs!
>
>plenty more where they came from!
>

adski

16-Nov-2005
11:28:22 PM

On 15/11/2005 rodw wrote:
>Yeah crimpshaw just hang out with the hermit at the cave and contemplate
>life...

Ah great, just what i need, another nickname.
;-)

duglash

17-Nov-2005
2:08:21 PM

Yeah Non Stop and On High are easy to get to from the top, you can tr both from the same setup and
both all big holds.

Also Undertaker.

And a fair bit at Milennium

There are 14 messages in this topic.