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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Nose, El Capitan 24-May-2010 At 6:32:23 PM singersmith

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No apology necessary, but I do come off as a total dick/psycho in the book. In hindsight it is kind of funny; there are some rich quotes in there.

Brass offsets are kind of handy in one or two spots (most of the Great Roof is usually fixed) but hardy essential. Most of the route really is plugging cams/cam hooks, back cleaning, and clipping fixed gear. You do need a small offset at the step across on the Changing Corners, maybe a #2 or something, unless you're really tall. Evan a cam hook won't go in there. Other than than I really don't have a recollection of placing nuts on the route. This is if you're comfortable soloing Yosemite 5.10 hand cracks though. If not, you'd want doubles in hand-sized gear.

Wish I had my guidebook here, I'd post the rack I take. I forced myself to write it down once because it seems ridiculously small and I always doubt myself when I put it together, but I never end up using more when I take it. It's something like one set of cams to a #3.5 camalot, double on green alien/blue TCU (no purple TCU, never end up placing it) five nuts, two cam hooks, 20 draws/slings, 8 free biners.

I did have to bail once when I almost took a hundred footer and dropped my only orange TCU so that I could catch the belay as I sailed past....

Commit and have a blast!