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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Developing new areas
chriss
10/05/2010
3:23:49 PM
Due to the closure of Burnley and my love of new stuff I have cleaned and developed some bouldering on some old quarried faces in a reserve in Melbourne (SW).

As I am from the UK so not fully aware of Aus laws, rights etc so dose anyone know if I am I allowed to? It is on council property. Last thing I want to do is anything unlawful. I have kept cleaning and chalk to a minimum and have not done any gardening to allow more problems.

There are no 3 star problems or big numbers (V0- V4ish), but plenty more lines could be cleaned up and a nice circuit developed.

Any thoughts or info greatly received. I probably won't do anything else until I know the deal.
dalai
10/05/2010
3:33:44 PM
If it is in a park with a lake in it, then they won't be FA's...

I've always kept a low profile and kept the chalk and noise down when going there over the years. In some Victorian areas, the park managers have banned climbing as the easy option from a liability perspective hence keeping a low profile.

nmonteith
10/05/2010
3:36:03 PM
Newport quarry? Just do whatever you want. Every tiny bit of rock in Melbourne will have been climbed on before.
dalai
10/05/2010
3:40:24 PM
Someone obviously doesn't understand the concept of low profile... Thanks Neil. *rolls eyes*
chriss
10/05/2010
3:55:01 PM
Cool, and correct with the right location too. I suspected they had seen some action before, but not much as most of them are filthy with no chalk on them.

I'm not to bothered about the kudos attached with FA's as dirty quarried faces are never going to set the climbing world alight, but always nice to get on some new stuff.

I'm aware not all authorities are keen on climbers so will continue to keep a low profile.

dalai
10/05/2010
4:02:25 PM
Until now it has always been a word of mouth place (has come up in posts here a couple of times but the discussion is usually quickly moved on). So wonít have had too much traffic due to the above.

I havenít been for ~3 years so canít comment on the problems current conditionÖ More recently before damaging a finger I spent time developing a new natural basalt edge with just under 100 new problems, so some new areas can still be discovered. ;-)
chriss
10/05/2010
4:08:34 PM
On 10/05/2010 dalai wrote:
>Until now it has always been a word of mouth place (has come up in posts
>here a couple of times but the discussion is usually quickly moved on).
>So wonít have had too much traffic due to the above.
>
>I havenít been for ~3 years so canít comment on the problems current conditionÖ
>More recently before damaging a finger I spent time developing a new natural
>basalt edge with just under 100 new problems, so some new areas can still
>be discovered. ;-)

Details ??
>

nmonteith
10/05/2010
4:17:16 PM
I lived 500m from that quarry for a few years and bouldered there often. I have no idea why it needs to be kept a secret. There is a dirt slope above the whole cliffline - so when it rains it just drops muck all over the problems, thus the reason it never looks clean.
dalai
10/05/2010
4:35:53 PM
Melbourne has a history of areas just being banned. Hanging Rock, Doncaster Park, Moorooduc Quarry are three that spring to mind. Lal Lal isn't in Melbourne and was worthless but it set the precedence of just banning. As we don't have a wealth of rock or areas, any closures regardless of your deemed quality will have an impact...

This quarry was part of my weekly daylight savings mid week boulder for quite a few years. Especially with the south facing walls being bearable even on the hotter evenings.

Sorry Chriss, no details as yet other than its not SW from the CBD or a summer area - West facing and snake central.

ajfclark
10/05/2010
4:38:56 PM
Out of interest Dalai, do you have a list of these areas that were banned?
dalai
10/05/2010
4:43:10 PM
On 10/05/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>Out of interest Dalai, do you have a list of these areas that were banned?

Added to the above post...

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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