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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Anchor testing (PV)-commercial climbing sites Vic 9-Mar-2010 At 10:18:02 AM harold
Message
7.5kn sounds like a bit of overkill, that is the maximum impact force there can be when a 80KG person takes a factor 1.8 fall with a dynamic rope. Also the max upward force a person could put on a top anchor couldn't be much over 1Kn. Would this sort of test weaken a good bolt? I do hope that the replacements will be appropriate and not also major overkill.

On the other hand I can understand Parks taking some responsibility for top anchors when they are accepting a fee for commercial use. I think this it is good if they take a different attitude to these anchors as opposed to the many others used and placed by individuals not paying any fee. Also, some of those bolts on top of big rock obviously looked pretty old and rusty. And the detached block on Urinal wall was a pretty silly place to put bolts when there is perfectly solid rock at the top of the wall. Pretty dodgy looking for commercial use so good idea to replace these.

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