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Oh Araps, give me your 19s, 20s, 21s! |
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23-Oct-2008 11:10:46 AM
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Hey y'all,
I'm heading up to Araps with a gang intent on taking on the best that the mount has to offer between the merry grades of 19 and 21 and thought that I would dip into the well of combined knowledges to see what routes the people Out There thought have to/must be (don't argue) on the list.
So, suggestions/compulsions?
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23-Oct-2008 11:16:10 AM
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Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
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23-Oct-2008 11:21:20 AM
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Judgement Day, 19 - awesome rising traverse.
Of course, Katchoong, 21, and right next to it A Taste of Honey 21 also.
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23-Oct-2008 11:24:02 AM
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I heard a whisper that a taste of honey had more sandbag in the grade than the whole of the Somme had in its trenches in 1916!
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23-Oct-2008 11:34:04 AM
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You're naughty Sabu.
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23-Oct-2008 11:37:21 AM
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Tanin, Lemington and Morfydd 19 (probably in that order)
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23-Oct-2008 11:37:40 AM
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On 23/10/2008 captainpant wrote:
>I heard a whisper that a taste of honey had more sandbag in the grade than
>the whole of the Somme had in its trenches in 1916!
Sandbag? Hmmm maybe a tiny little bit. Certainly very committing! ;-)
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23-Oct-2008 11:51:32 AM
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5 fingered mary is the only 5 star route at the mount ... after you're through with Sabu's list, you can take on In Lieu and Stormalong.
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23-Oct-2008 11:51:42 AM
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@ 19, Tannin, Lemmington (both walls), Morfydd (Jamming)
@ 20, Cadenza, New Image, Wasp (pumpy)
@ 21, The Wraith, Auto de Fe, Chinese Algebra, No Future (all walls, the first 2 thin, the first and last with strenuous gear), Thundercrack (Jamming)
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23-Oct-2008 11:56:09 AM
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On Kachoong and A Taste of Honey, I reckon:
ATOH is a tougher onsight.
Kachoong is a tougher redpoint.
ATOH is tougher to second.
The gear placement decisions are tougher on Kachoong.
ATOH Direct Start is considerably tougher than either of those climbs, it felt like 22 to me.
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23-Oct-2008 12:07:27 PM
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On 23/10/2008 langles wrote:
>@ 19, Tannin, Lemmington (both walls), Morfydd (Jamming)
>@ 20, Cadenza, New Image, Wasp (pumpy)
>@ 21, The Wraith, Auto de Fe, Chinese Algebra, No Future (all walls, the
>first 2 thin, the first and last with strenuous gear), Thundercrack (Jamming)
When I read "Lemmington (both walls)" I thought man langles must be seriously flexible. I mean, my stemming sucks at the best of times, but stemming onto D minor pinnacle to climb lemmington is a bit of an ask!!! [then i worked out what you were referring to]
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23-Oct-2008 12:15:31 PM
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On 23/10/2008 cruze wrote:
>When I read "Lemmington (both walls)" I thought man langles must be seriously
>flexible. I mean, my stemming sucks at the best of times, but stemming
>onto D minor pinnacle to climb lemmington is a bit of an ask!!! [then
>i worked out what you were referring to]
I spent a moment wondering where the 2nd wall on Lemmington was ...
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23-Oct-2008 12:22:36 PM
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On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself
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23-Oct-2008 12:34:53 PM
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19 - Electra, Telemachus, Tarantula, Pyrrhic Victory, Acapulco Gold, Candy O
20 - Wizard of Ice, Kingdom Come, Five Fingered Mary, Thunder Crack, Cut Short, A Taste of Honey DS, Vanoise
21 - Saturation Point, Braindrops, Touchdown, Anything at All, Speachless
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23-Oct-2008 12:39:48 PM
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Comic Relief, Entertainer, round up & sideshow makes for a good session.
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23-Oct-2008 12:45:26 PM
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On 23/10/2008 Tlockwood wrote:
>lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself
Ha, owned.
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23-Oct-2008 12:53:36 PM
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On 23/10/2008 Tlockwood wrote:
>On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>>Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
>
>lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself
:D
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23-Oct-2008 1:37:34 PM
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OK, I'm in:
19: Tannin, Judgement Day, Quo Vadis, Poppies (not very popular but I like it), The Wall of the Afternoon Sun, Lemmington (ignoring earlier comments), Rosy Shy.
20: Thunder Crack, Stranger's Eliminate, Dazed and Confused, Vanoise, Firedance (just noticed in the guide it's been downgraded; it seemed very easy for 20), Blue Hawaii, Little Thor.
21: The Wraith, Blyth Street, Auto Da Fe, Kachoong, Taste of Honey, The British Beat if you like thin steep slabs, New Image, Chinese Algebra, Comic Relief
Add Pearls Before Swine (20) to Sabu's list (you are evil).
Taste of Honey is better climbing than Kachoong.
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23-Oct-2008 1:59:58 PM
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I kind of thought that Rosy Shy and Poppies were one move wonder climbs. Wild Oats is a 19 in a similar vein. Not to say the routes aren't really good though!
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23-Oct-2008 2:06:29 PM
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On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>On 23/10/2008 Tlockwood wrote:
>>On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>>>Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
>>
>>lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself
Yeah Sabu, always happy to give a recommendation of something you;
a. Have not climbed (they'll probably have the guide book anyway)
b. As Tim said too scared to jump on yourself
And therefore;
c. should not be recommending
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