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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Author
Oh Araps, give me your 19s, 20s, 21s!
SimMad
23-Oct-2008
11:10:46 AM
Hey y'all,

I'm heading up to Araps with a gang intent on taking on the best that the mount has to offer between the merry grades of 19 and 21 and thought that I would dip into the well of combined knowledges to see what routes the people Out There thought have to/must be (don't argue) on the list.

So, suggestions/compulsions?


Sabu
23-Oct-2008
11:16:10 AM
Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
rb
23-Oct-2008
11:21:20 AM
Judgement Day, 19 - awesome rising traverse.
Of course, Katchoong, 21, and right next to it A Taste of Honey 21 also.
SimMad
23-Oct-2008
11:24:02 AM
I heard a whisper that a taste of honey had more sandbag in the grade than the whole of the Somme had in its trenches in 1916!
hero
23-Oct-2008
11:34:04 AM
You're naughty Sabu.

cruze
23-Oct-2008
11:37:21 AM
Tanin, Lemington and Morfydd 19 (probably in that order)
rb
23-Oct-2008
11:37:40 AM
On 23/10/2008 captainpant wrote:
>I heard a whisper that a taste of honey had more sandbag in the grade than
>the whole of the Somme had in its trenches in 1916!

Sandbag? Hmmm maybe a tiny little bit. Certainly very committing! ;-)
Wendy
23-Oct-2008
11:51:32 AM
5 fingered mary is the only 5 star route at the mount ... after you're through with Sabu's list, you can take on In Lieu and Stormalong.

langles
23-Oct-2008
11:51:42 AM
@ 19, Tannin, Lemmington (both walls), Morfydd (Jamming)
@ 20, Cadenza, New Image, Wasp (pumpy)
@ 21, The Wraith, Auto de Fe, Chinese Algebra, No Future (all walls, the first 2 thin, the first and last with strenuous gear), Thundercrack (Jamming)
prb
23-Oct-2008
11:56:09 AM
On Kachoong and A Taste of Honey, I reckon:

ATOH is a tougher onsight.
Kachoong is a tougher redpoint.
ATOH is tougher to second.
The gear placement decisions are tougher on Kachoong.

ATOH Direct Start is considerably tougher than either of those climbs, it felt like 22 to me.

cruze
23-Oct-2008
12:07:27 PM
On 23/10/2008 langles wrote:
>@ 19, Tannin, Lemmington (both walls), Morfydd (Jamming)
>@ 20, Cadenza, New Image, Wasp (pumpy)
>@ 21, The Wraith, Auto de Fe, Chinese Algebra, No Future (all walls, the
>first 2 thin, the first and last with strenuous gear), Thundercrack (Jamming)

When I read "Lemmington (both walls)" I thought man langles must be seriously flexible. I mean, my stemming sucks at the best of times, but stemming onto D minor pinnacle to climb lemmington is a bit of an ask!!! [then i worked out what you were referring to]
Wendy
23-Oct-2008
12:15:31 PM
On 23/10/2008 cruze wrote:

>When I read "Lemmington (both walls)" I thought man langles must be seriously
>flexible. I mean, my stemming sucks at the best of times, but stemming
>onto D minor pinnacle to climb lemmington is a bit of an ask!!! [then
>i worked out what you were referring to]

I spent a moment wondering where the 2nd wall on Lemmington was ...
Tlockwood
23-Oct-2008
12:22:36 PM
On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!

lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself

The good Dr
23-Oct-2008
12:34:53 PM
19 - Electra, Telemachus, Tarantula, Pyrrhic Victory, Acapulco Gold, Candy O
20 - Wizard of Ice, Kingdom Come, Five Fingered Mary, Thunder Crack, Cut Short, A Taste of Honey DS, Vanoise
21 - Saturation Point, Braindrops, Touchdown, Anything at All, Speachless

phil_nev
23-Oct-2008
12:39:48 PM
Comic Relief, Entertainer, round up & sideshow makes for a good session.
Duncan
23-Oct-2008
12:45:26 PM
On 23/10/2008 Tlockwood wrote:
>lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself

Ha, owned.

Sabu
23-Oct-2008
12:53:36 PM
On 23/10/2008 Tlockwood wrote:
>On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>>Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
>
>lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself

:D
gfdonc
23-Oct-2008
1:37:34 PM
OK, I'm in:
19: Tannin, Judgement Day, Quo Vadis, Poppies (not very popular but I like it), The Wall of the Afternoon Sun, Lemmington (ignoring earlier comments), Rosy Shy.

20: Thunder Crack, Stranger's Eliminate, Dazed and Confused, Vanoise, Firedance (just noticed in the guide it's been downgraded; it seemed very easy for 20), Blue Hawaii, Little Thor.

21: The Wraith, Blyth Street, Auto Da Fe, Kachoong, Taste of Honey, The British Beat if you like thin steep slabs, New Image, Chinese Algebra, Comic Relief

Add Pearls Before Swine (20) to Sabu's list (you are evil).
Taste of Honey is better climbing than Kachoong.

cruze
23-Oct-2008
1:59:58 PM
I kind of thought that Rosy Shy and Poppies were one move wonder climbs. Wild Oats is a 19 in a similar vein. Not to say the routes aren't really good though!

Joad
23-Oct-2008
2:06:29 PM
On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>On 23/10/2008 Tlockwood wrote:
>>On 23/10/2008 Sabu wrote:
>>>Five fingered Mary (20) and Wizard of Ice (20). Have a fun weekend!
>>
>>lets not be recommending climbs you're too scared to jump on yourself

Yeah Sabu, always happy to give a recommendation of something you;
a. Have not climbed (they'll probably have the guide book anyway)
b. As Tim said too scared to jump on yourself
And therefore;
c. should not be recommending

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

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