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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Jamming training at home 17-Jan-2008 At 4:20:24 PM singersmith

Message

I've climbed on heaps of different crack machines and have decided that they all pretty much suck; the
primary offenders being flex and slip. Go with 2x6's and run bolts the length of the thing for the
adjustment and flex factor. I'd experiment with beveling the edges of the crack to make both the feet and
the hands less painful, and to give you decent feet so you can run the whole kit at a steeper angle and
work flared sizes.

My experience has been that it's better to seek out good buildering and psyched partners rather than try
to reconstruct rock yourself. See my thread in the Crag/Route section for an example. My local crack
crag is sick, the easiest routes are grade 23 or 24 and the hardest are pretty hard and still unclimbed.
It's not easy to rally partners to go tick grade 30 fingertips on concrete in a parking lot.