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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Hangboard Solution
sydneymatt
20/07/2006
3:28:01 PM
Am the proud owner of a new metoliuos hangboard. Have no woodwork skills(can swing a hammer though) and am a renter. Any relatively cheap/easy solutions please. Cannot Drill in the unit. A -frame design for woodworking dummies? Have plenty of space and 12ft ceilings. Any advice/appreciated. cheers matt
dalai
20/07/2006
3:38:58 PM
I made an A-frame free standing 7 rung Campus board years ago sans plans... Even with zero woodworking skills it wasn't that hard.

If space isn't a problem, why not a small free standing bouldering wall instead?

Juffries
20/07/2006
4:30:04 PM
On 20/07/2006 sydneymatt wrote:
>Am the proud owner of a new metoliuos hangboard. Have no woodwork skills(can
>swing a hammer though) and am a renter. Any relatively cheap/easy solutions
>please. Cannot Drill in the unit. A -frame design for woodworking dummies?
>Have plenty of space and 12ft ceilings. Any advice/appreciated. cheers
>matt

Matt I had exactly the same issue....

The solution, just fix the sucker to the wall anyway.
* Pick an area over a door with as little wall behind it as possible (eg: a hallway)
* Cut a backing sheet of Ply to protect the wall behind
* Pre-drill the required holes and insert plastic screw sleeves
* Screw in the hangboard through the ply. If you go for higher strength Stainless Steel screws instead of the crud that come with the board you can get away with using less screws (I used 5 in a W pattern - Iím 110kg supports me fine.)
* Get a dulux colour chart and buy a sample pot of paint that matches the wall you are mounting the board on.
* As long as you measure it all up carefully, the only damage will be a few small holes in the wall.

If your landlord issues you with an inspection notice, remove the board, use some plaster filler to plug up the holes, lightly sand when dry then touch up with paint.
This is much cheaper than building an A-frame or temporary support, plus the A frame is more likely to bang into walls when using it/moving it.

I just had my major inspection and passed with flying colours.

Or you could simply try to get permission from your landlord on the basis that you will amend the lease contract to include a provision to undertake the repairs prior to release of your bond - not likely though.

Rupert
20/07/2006
10:53:13 PM
Agree put it over a doorway - but for a landlord friendly solution you can fix it with a couple of very big G clamps like these: http://www.haviker.co.uk/soma/g-clamp.jpg
and then use some timber to protect the walls. Works well. You just take it down for the yearly inspection :)

Doc
21/07/2006
8:40:15 AM
I agree with Juffries. Have the Simulator mounted above a bedroom door in my house. I basically followed the plans on their website. I did use slightly thinner ply but it all went well and took about an hour to put up. Lots of fun. I own my house so thats not a problem but you do only need a few small holes. As long as you take your time they will be easily covered up at a later stage! The board is well mounted and gets a lot of use so worth the work.

Mick
21/07/2006
9:52:36 AM
What size screws would you suggest using, or would you go with expansion bolts?
grass_hopper
21/07/2006
12:05:01 PM
I'd go with the expansion bolt option for matt, possibly extra reinforcing as well!
M
21/07/2006
12:09:41 PM
i put mine up in my own house so there were no landlord issues.
the internal walls in my place are plaster covered timber frame. the hang board needs to be attached
directly to the studs and of course the bolt holes didnt line up with the position of the studs. I cut out a
piece of timber to match the back of the hangboard. Drilled holes in this to match those in the hang board
and mounted tee nuts in backing board so the hang board could be attached to the backing board after the
backing board was attached to the wall. i then used screw bolts to attatch the backing board to the wall.
the hang board is then bolted to the backing board. you need to use bolts that are the correct length. I
used std hardware bought bolts for this purpose as I was able to cut them to the precise length. i drilled
out the holes in my hangboard slightly to accomodate the bolt heads. the other advantage to this is that it
pushes the hangboard out from the wall slightly which is usefull if you have large architraves around the
door.

just a couple of points of caution
With a timber/plaster wall i think there is potentially more damage than just the bolt holes with movement
of the hangboard potentilly causing cracks.
Attaching to the bottom couple of courses of bricks above a doorway could also result in cracks
particuarly if the lintel is weak or has moved.
In either case i reckon you would probably be OK but its worth considering how much it will cost you if
there is some damage and your landloard finds out.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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